Connecting a warm floor to a heating system in an apartment or a private house

There are so many con­flict­ing rec­om­men­da­tions and instruc­tions that describe how a water heat­ed floor sys­tem should gen­er­al­ly be con­nect­ed. If we accu­mu­late the gen­er­al pos­tu­lates of heat­ing spe­cial­ists, then the pres­ence of a cir­cu­la­tion pump will be a pre­req­ui­site. At the same time, there is not much dif­fer­ence in the type of heat­ing main — cir­cu­la­tion, grav­i­ty, one-pipe or two-pipe. The pump must be able to over­come the con­sid­er­able hydraulic resis­tance cre­at­ed by the under­floor heat­ing cir­cuit.

Typical scheme for inserting a warm floor into a heating system


How to connect a warm floor to the heating system

Con­nect­ing a warm floor to a radi­a­tor type heat­ing sys­tem can be arranged using the so-called “local floor heat­ing con­nec­tion mod­ule”. The required mod­ule is avail­able, both pur­chased in a ready-made, assem­bled form by vis­it­ing a spe­cial­ized store, or made inde­pen­dent­ly.

Nothing special.  Can be assembled from tees and valves purchased at the nearest valve shop.

  1. Con­nec­tion to a two-pipe radi­a­tor heat­ing sys­tem. The eas­i­est option to imple­ment is to install floor pipes and cut them into the cir­cuit. You can crash both with the help of the mod­ule, and sim­ply by using two ball valves. The main thing is not to get con­fused and fol­low the order of con­nect­ing the sup­ply-return.

The simplest tie-in scheme

  1. A tie-in to a sin­gle-pipe scheme, com­mon­ly referred to as “Leningrad­ka”. The imple­men­ta­tion is as sim­ple as in a two-pipe cir­cuit. The under­floor heat­ing sup­ply is fed after the cir­cu­la­tion pump, and the return line is brought into the pipe in front of the pump. The floor tem­per­a­ture is con­trolled by a valve in the floor heat­ing cir­cuit.

Single pipe tie-in

  1. Warm floor heat­ing sys­tem grav­i­ta­tion­al. Quite a dif­fi­cult option due to the lack of forced pump­ing of the coolant. The slope of the pipelines involves cut­ting the floor at the begin­ning of the room, where the hor­i­zon­tal lev­el is high­er, and the out­put of the return at the end of the room — there is a low­er absolute lev­el. The com­plex­i­ty of the process is very high and it is not a fact that the efforts expend­ed will lead to the desired result. In eighty per­cent of cas­es, it becomes nec­es­sary to use an addi­tion­al pump to pump liq­uid into the warm floor. And since you still need to buy addi­tion­al equip­ment, it will be much more effi­cient to trans­fer the entire sys­tem to forced cir­cu­la­tion.

How does underfloor heating work from a heating boiler

The range of work that needs to be done to pow­er the warm floor from the heat­ing boil­er is no dif­fer­ent from that when cut­ting into a cen­tral­ized route. You only need to pay atten­tion to the fol­low­ing fac­tors:

  • Pres­ence of a secu­ri­ty group. If it is absent in the design of the boil­er, then the group will need to be installed in accor­dance with the design stan­dards for heat­ing net­works.
  • Inser­tion of the col­lec­tor node. This ele­ment will allow you to dis­trib­ute the coolant flow between the radi­a­tors and the under­floor heat­ing in the required pro­por­tion.
  • Installing a cir­cu­la­tion pump. If it is not built into the boil­er, then you will have to spend some mon­ey on the pur­chase, which guar­an­tees the effi­cien­cy of heat sup­ply and its uni­form dis­tri­b­u­tion through­out all rooms of the build­ing.

Nuance — any mod­i­fi­ca­tions car­ried out on cen­tral heat­ing must be agreed and accom­pa­nied by a cer­tain set of doc­u­ments, one of which is an approved and agreed design solu­tion. Buy­ing a boil­er will be an expen­sive plea­sure, but it will allow you to avoid many trou­bles with licens­ing author­i­ties.

Design features and choice of materials

In order to ful­ly expe­ri­ence the effect of the imple­men­ta­tion, you need to take care, first of all, of the choice of high-qual­i­ty mate­ri­als — from a heat insu­la­tor to a floor cov­er­ing.

A good heat insu­la­tor will help min­i­mize heat loss through leak­age into the struc­tur­al ele­ments of the build­ing, and high-qual­i­ty floor pipes will guar­an­tee long-term, trou­ble-free oper­a­tion. Fin­ish­ing the floor also costs a lot of mon­ey and dis­man­tling, due to the ridicu­lous leak­age due to a fac­to­ry defect of cheap Chi­nese prod­ucts, will negate most of the effort spent.

Due to the fact that the lay­ing tech­nol­o­gy is quite com­plex, it does not make much sense to con­sid­er the nuances and pro­fes­sion­al sub­tleties. It would be much bet­ter to entrust this work to expe­ri­enced installers who are experts in their field.

Pretty complicated technology, isn't it?

Tips & Tricks

It is imper­a­tive to imple­ment a bypass for under­floor heat­ing, which allows you to cut off the faulty part of the cir­cuit with­out stop­ping the boil­er. In this case, it is pos­si­ble to car­ry out repairs with­out leav­ing the whole house with­out heat, which is espe­cial­ly impor­tant in win­ter.

Care­ful­ly study the sys­tem on which you plan to make a warm floor. This deter­mines the min­i­mum required diam­e­ter of the pipes used for lay­ing in the floor. The low­er the cir­cu­la­tion pos­si­bil­i­ty of the route, the larg­er the diam­e­ter should be to reduce the hydraulic resis­tance.

Due to the high tem­per­a­ture of the coolant at the out­let of the boil­er, the use of plas­tic pipes for cold water sup­ply is unac­cept­able. It is nec­es­sary to pro­ceed from the cal­cu­la­tion of 90 degrees Cel­sius as the max­i­mum val­ue.


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