Exhaust ventilation from sewer pipes: laying technology, materials and requirements


The pres­ence of ven­ti­la­tion in rooms with the con­stant pres­ence of peo­ple and ani­mals is the key to their health and well-being. Not every­one can install a ready-made ven­ti­la­tion sys­tem due to the high price. Ven­ti­la­tion in a house or garage from sew­er pipes is no excep­tion.

Out­door ven­ti­la­tion out­let

Sew­er pipes are avail­able to absolute­ly every­one. Due to the low price and high qual­i­ty of the mate­ri­als used for the ven­ti­la­tion sys­tem, every­one can buy them.

Divid­ing ven­ti­la­tion into sev­er­al rooms

Mak­ing ven­ti­la­tion from pipes is not dif­fi­cult. First you need to cal­cu­late all the nec­es­sary equip­ment and mate­r­i­al, and then assem­ble a work­ing ven­ti­la­tion sys­tem for your home or garage. This arti­cle will help with this.

Technical characteristics and properties of plastic pipes


Mate­ri­als for the man­u­fac­ture of sew­er ele­ments:

  • Polyurethane;
  • Poly­eth­yl­ene;
  • Polypropy­lene;
  • Polyvinyl chlo­ride (aka PVC).
Sew­er pipes

The above mate­ri­als are com­plete­ly safe in rela­tion to nature and humans. They can be used as sew­er ele­ments and in more com­plex life sup­port sys­tems.

If you choose a mate­r­i­al, then the most worth giv­ing pref­er­ence to PVC. It is not afraid of mois­ture, is not sub­ject to destruc­tion under the influ­ence of UV rays or tem­per­a­ture changes. Weak­ly burns even with the use of flam­ma­ble agents. What you need to build a good ven­ti­la­tion sys­tem.

PVC pipes

Advantages and disadvantages of ventilation from sewer pipes


The abil­i­ty to build your own ven­ti­la­tion sys­tem from sew­er pipes has a num­ber of sub­tleties and nuances. Ignor­ing them, you can harm the future ven­ti­la­tion sys­tem or even the res­i­dents of the house / apart­ment.


  • Low assem­bly cost. If dur­ing assem­bly there is dam­age to the mate­r­i­al, then buy­ing a new one will not cause any dif­fi­cul­ties.
  • San­i­tary waste pipes are safe for humans and the envi­ron­ment. The prod­ucts of their com­bus­tion and decom­po­si­tion will also not bring any harm to the body.
  • Ease of instal­la­tion. Even an inex­pe­ri­enced mas­ter can assem­ble a home ver­sion of exhaust ven­ti­la­tion. All PVC pipes are equipped with tight con­nect­ing elas­tic bands, they can be assem­bled lit­er­al­ly with “bare hands”. The design and con­fig­u­ra­tion can be any. A vari­ety of adapters will help to get around the cor­ner of any shape and com­plex­i­ty.
  • Long ser­vice life. With a good set of cir­cum­stances, such ven­ti­la­tion will last up to 10–15 years with­out replac­ing its ele­ments.
  • Secre­cy of the gas­ket. In the case of plas­tic pipes, every­thing is sim­ple — they can eas­i­ly fit even in the tight­est cor­ners of the room.
  • Fans and oth­er equip­ment are per­fect­ly com­bined with them. To do this, you don’t even have to buy adapters or come up with com­plex bends. Design fea­tures allow you to con­nect every­thing direct­ly.


  • If han­dled care­less­ly, the struc­ture can eas­i­ly be dam­aged. To do this, it is enough to hit a sol­id sur­face or inac­cu­rate impact with a tool.
  • Increased accu­mu­la­tion of mois­ture and con­den­sa­tion. The cav­i­ty of the pipes is sol­id, respec­tive­ly, it has no pos­si­bil­i­ty for air to enter. Against this back­ground, con­den­sa­tion occurs.

Installation steps


Do-it-your­self ven­ti­la­tion in a pri­vate house from sew­er pipes is quite sim­ple. First you need to deter­mine the type of sys­tem. There are 2 of them — nat­ur­al and forced.

Nat­ur­al is car­ried out due to trac­tion, which aris­es from the dif­fer­ence in pres­sure on the sur­face and inside the pipes. In forced mode, this task is per­formed by a spe­cial device (fan). It builds up pres­sure inside the sys­tem and throws the accu­mu­lat­ed gas­es out.

Scheme of nat­ur­al ven­ti­la­tion

It should be not­ed that the use of lat­tice fans sig­nif­i­cant­ly reduces the amount of accu­mu­lat­ed con­den­sate.

Arrangement rules

Ven­ti­la­tion can be laid in an already pre­pared sew­er cav­i­ty (in old apart­ments it is locat­ed in the bath­room and in the kitchen). Here, all the details can be hid­den from view and you do not have to car­ry out addi­tion­al work to dis­man­tle the walls. In the garage, you can run along the wall or in the far­thest cor­ner, where it will not inter­fere with mov­ing and per­form­ing any work.

Branch­es are insu­lat­ed not only on the street, but also indoors. To do this, you can use foil insu­la­tion or its ana­logues.

The out­lets to the street and the house are cov­ered with bars. On the street, this will pro­tect against snow, and indoors, it will pre­vent excess debris from get­ting inside.

Indoor and out­door pro­tec­tion

Do not install ven­ti­la­tion near high-volt­age wires. Mas­ters do not rec­om­mend doing this, since if you need to change the wires, you will also have to destroy the ven­ti­la­tion sys­tem.

Material calculation

The main point in the cal­cu­la­tions is the selec­tion of the cor­rect length and cross-sec­tion­al area of ​​u200bu200bthe pipe. The longer and wider the pipe, the stronger the pull effect will be. This applies to both nat­ur­al and forced sys­tems.

The num­ber of pipes is cal­cu­lat­ed using the same sys­tem. If one pipe is not enough, then anoth­er one must be added near­by or a larg­er diam­e­ter of the first must be used.

Equipment and tools

When installing a ven­ti­la­tion sys­tem, you will need high-qual­i­ty tools. These are con­struc­tion tools that can be found in the garage or bought at the hard­ware store.

First of all, it is a ham­mer, a knife (ordi­nary or spe­cial, designed for cut­ting PVC pipes), a drill or a screw­driv­er for fix­ing fas­ten­ers. When build­ing a shaft on the roof of a room, you may need brick, cement and every­thing relat­ed.

The forced sys­tem will require a work­ing super­charg­er (fan), which will be installed as a last resort from the inside of the room.

Building codes for ventilation systems

For exam­ple, for a room of 25 sq. m. it is bet­ter to use pipes with a diam­e­ter of 120 to 200 mm. This will be enough to pro­vide air exchange with an inten­si­ty of 3 cubic meters. m. per hour (in accor­dance with the norm of san­i­tary ser­vices). The rec­om­mend­ed length is from 5–8 m. The main thing is that the hood for ven­ti­la­tion, or rather its end, should rise above the roof of the build­ing by at least 0.5–1 m.

Use only pipes made of non-com­bustible or refrac­to­ry mate­ri­als. These include PVC, it prac­ti­cal­ly does not burn and is weak­ly affect­ed by tem­per­a­ture changes.

Recommendations of experienced craftsmen and possible mistakes


Ven­ti­la­tion of a room from sew­er pipes usu­al­ly does not cause any dif­fi­cul­ties, but some­times even expe­ri­enced crafts­men have dif­fi­cult moments that can only be solved by resort­ing to out­side help.

The use of sew­er pipes implies the use of light con­struc­tion tools, since all work is car­ried out on pre-pre­pared sur­faces. It remains only to con­nect and fix the pipes of the ven­ti­la­tion sys­tem. But there are some impor­tant points here:

  • It is nec­es­sary to fix the pipes at some dis­tance from the walls. A dis­tance of 1–1.5 cm will be enough. This gap will reduce the degree of con­den­sa­tion by cre­at­ing a ther­mal cush­ion;
  • Do not tight­en the pipes too much due to their fragili­ty. If you over­do it with the screed, you will have to go to the store for new pipes or fit­tings.
Mount­ing exam­ple

Fre­quent mis­takes also occur dur­ing the con­struc­tion of a shaft on the roof of a room. Basi­cal­ly, many peo­ple use hol­low bricks, which is a mis­take. Experts rec­om­mend using hol­low brick. It per­fect­ly holds the tem­per­a­ture and is not afraid of any influ­ences from the envi­ron­ment.

When ven­ti­lat­ing a pri­vate house, it is worth con­sid­er­ing the struc­tur­al fea­tures of the room. If you do not take into account any cor­ner or recess at the cal­cu­la­tion stage, then in the next peri­od you will have to buy more mate­r­i­al. There­fore, every­thing must be care­ful­ly cal­cu­lat­ed in advance, but it is bet­ter to draw a detailed dia­gram using engi­neer­ing pro­grams.

When choos­ing a fan for a forced sys­tem, you should pay atten­tion to its pow­er. The more pow­er­ful the fan, the bet­ter. This applies to both large and small spaces.

The need for a ven­ti­la­tion sys­tem in the garage is not in dis­pute. In such places, the exhaust ven­ti­la­tion sys­tem must be locat­ed in such a posi­tion that it does not inter­fere with move­ment or work.

Installing a ven­ti­la­tion sys­tem from sew­er pipes is a sim­ple process, but at the same time requir­ing spe­cial atten­tion from the selec­tion of mate­r­i­al. Prop­er­ly select­ed mate­r­i­al is the key to a high-qual­i­ty exhaust sys­tem!


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