Practical ways to mask sewer pipes in the bathroom

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Any unusu­al design solu­tion for a san­i­tary room can be spoiled by the unsight­ly appear­ance of open com­mu­ni­ca­tions. There are sev­er­al ways to hide, spoil­ing the view, sew­er pipes in the bath­room, the main thing is to pro­vide access to ser­vice sys­tems.

Mask­ing sew­ers with tiles

Prop­er­ly installed inter­nal sew­er­age in an apart­ment is the key to the nor­mal func­tion­ing of plumb­ing, the absence of prob­lems with an unpleas­ant smell and damp­ness. Pro­fes­sion­al pipe instal­la­tion will also keep the repairs just made and your nerves intact. There­fore, before immur­ing pipes into the wall, make sure that the joints and fas­ten­ers are secure­ly glued, the com­mu­ni­ca­tion scheme is made in accor­dance with the build­ing project.

Advice! It is not rec­om­mend­ed to imme­di­ate­ly cement the water sup­ply in the wall and tile it. Let the assem­bled struc­ture stand open for sev­er­al days to check the reli­a­bil­i­ty of the sol­der joints in the pipes.

Requirements for materials

Before clos­ing the sew­er pipes in the bath­room and toi­let, it is nec­es­sary to choose the right fin­ish­ing mate­r­i­al. The qual­i­ty and tech­ni­cal char­ac­ter­is­tics of the mate­ri­als used must meet the fol­low­ing require­ments:

  • Mois­ture resis­tant. Kitchen, bath­room, bath­room are those places where there is always high humid­i­ty. Under the influ­ence of mois­ture, mate­ri­als are able to deform, col­lapse, and mold appears. That is why it is worth choos­ing mois­ture resis­tant options;
  • Light weight. In order not to “eat up” the already small area of ​​u200bu200bthe room, use mate­ri­als that do not need to cre­ate heavy, bulky struc­tures for their fas­ten­ers;
  • Resis­tance and chem­i­cals. It is impos­si­ble to use and clean a bath­room with­out house­hold chem­i­cals, so the mate­r­i­al must be such that it is easy to wash off dirt and chem­i­cal residues from it. It must also tol­er­ate direct con­tact with alka­line and aggres­sive clean­ers well.

The best mate­ri­als accord­ing to these char­ac­ter­is­tics to mask com­mu­ni­ca­tions are: MDF pan­els, plas­tic wall pan­els, mois­ture-resis­tant dry­wall and tile. A vari­ety of tex­tures, a wide range of col­ors, allows you to use them in any inte­ri­or and cre­ate your own orig­i­nal design.

How to disguise pipes: the most popular ways

There are many options to hide pro­trud­ing com­mu­ni­ca­tions in the kitchen and bath­room, we will con­sid­er the most pop­u­lar ones.

Method number 1

Cov­er­ing the sew­er pipes in the toi­let with fur­ni­ture is a sim­ple, func­tion­al way to hide the pipes from the eyes, while leav­ing access to them. Here it is impor­tant to choose the right set for the kitchen or bath. It is even bet­ter to make it to order, tak­ing into account all the avail­able nuances with com­mu­ni­ca­tions.

How to hide pipes in a toi­let with fur­ni­ture

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Large sew­er pipes, such as ris­ers, should be com­plete­ly removed behind wide cab­i­nets. In order for the fur­ni­ture to fit snug­ly against the wall and the pro­tru­sions are not con­spic­u­ous, it is nec­es­sary:

  • Remove the back wall com­plete­ly;
  • Make notch­es at the back of the shelves, in the shape of a pipe.

The pipes in the kitchen lead­ing to the sink will be hid­den by the cab­i­net, on the back wall of which it is nec­es­sary to car­ry out the same work as with the sto­ic.

dec­o­ra­tive orna­ment

Method number 2

If there is very lit­tle space, there is no way to order and install fur­ni­ture, you can sim­ply dec­o­rate or paint over the water sup­ply, mak­ing it part of the inte­ri­or. For paint­ing pipes, there is a spe­cial radi­a­tor paint that is resis­tant to heat and does not emit tox­ic sub­stances. To mod­i­fy the ris­ers, you can take water-dis­per­sion or alkyd paints.

Before appli­ca­tion, the sur­face is cleaned from rust and dirt. Coat­ed with a primer, which will pro­tect the met­al from cor­ro­sion and give greater adhe­sion to the paint. Before paint­ing, make sure that no con­den­sa­tion has accu­mu­lat­ed, which should be removed if nec­es­sary.

For plas­tic pip­ing, choose paints that do not con­tain alka­li and ace­tone. This may dam­age the coat­ing. Acrylic based on white spir­it is best suit­ed. Next, fol­low our advice:

  • It is nec­es­sary to pro­tect near­by walls and floor­ing from unin­ten­tion­al ingress of paint. Lay paper or plas­tic wrap around;
  • Start paint­ing with cold pipes, as it dries quick­ly on hot pipes, the result may be unnat­ur­al;
  • The work is car­ried out with a wide brush, as it is able to envel­op round shapes and does not allow streaks.

Dec­o­rat­ed pipes look no less inter­est­ing. You can, for exam­ple, use stuc­co mold­ing, which will effec­tive­ly com­ple­ment the ver­ti­cal ris­ers and turn them into columns.

The orig­i­nal way to col­or the ris­ers

Method number 3

One of the most pop­u­lar ways is to com­plete­ly close the sew­er pipe in the toi­let with dry­wall or make a box out of it. Mois­ture-resis­tant dry­wall is a prac­ti­cal mate­r­i­al that is often used in inte­ri­or design or dur­ing rede­vel­op­ment. Its main dif­fer­ence is anti­fun­gal and impreg­nat­ed impreg­na­tion, which pro­tects the mate­r­i­al from mold, fun­gus, destruc­tion.

Cre­at­ing a box for com­mu­ni­ca­tions

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To hto sew pipes in a box, it is nec­es­sary to cre­ate a frame of met­al guides fixed to the wall with brack­ets. To cre­ate a box, pro­files are used, the size of which is 27x60 mm. The work is car­ried out in sev­er­al stages:

  • Mark­ings are made on the floor and adja­cent wall. 3–5 cm recede from the high­est point of the water sup­ply, then draw a line. Also out­line the hor­i­zon­tal sides;
  • With the help of fas­ten­ers, the guides are fixed. Trans­verse ones are attached to them and fixed among them­selves with “crabs” at a step dis­tance of 15–20 cm;
  • Where com­mu­ni­ca­tions come into con­tact with the shad­ows of the box, a spe­cial cush­ion­ing tape is attached;
  • When assem­bling, make sure that the front side of the dry­wall is on the out­side. Screw caps should be screwed in so that they do not inter­fere with fur­ther fin­ish­ing;
  • Next, you need to leave an open­ing for the door. To do this, a hole is cut in the dry­wall, the door blank is put on hinges, sheathe the fin­ish with a com­plete­ly fin­ish­ing mate­r­i­al;
  • For reli­a­bil­i­ty, the cor­ners are equipped with per­fo­rat­ed fas­ten­ers.

If the box is cre­at­ed to mask a hot water sup­ply or heat­ing, holes are left on top to let warm air out. Also make a hole in the bot­tom. This is nec­es­sary to quick­ly detect a leak, then fix it.

Method number 4

The bath­room is often tiled. It can also be used to mask pipes. The method is char­ac­ter­ized by large labor costs and finan­cial invest­ments, but you will achieve a bet­ter aes­thet­ic effect. The basis is met­al or wood­en guides from which the box is assem­bled. If the guides are wood­en, they are treat­ed with a water-repel­lent com­pound.

Fur­ther work should be car­ried out accord­ing to the fol­low­ing scheme:

  • Mea­sure the perime­ter of the pas­sage of com­mu­ni­ca­tions;
  • The frame is assem­bled, fixed to the floor and walls;
  • The box is sheathed with sheets of chip­board or ply­wood;
  • Leave space for the door;
  • A rein­forc­ing mesh is applied on top;
  • Tiles are laid on it;
  • The seams between the tiles are over­writ­ten, leav­ing space reserved for the door.

The shape of the box can be any. For greater func­tion­al­i­ty, it can be made in the form of a ledge or shelf on which dec­o­ra­tive items will be placed. Or make it in the form of a small cab­i­net where you can store house­hold chem­i­cals.

Dis­guis­ing plumb­ing in the bath­room

Method number 5

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A screen made of plas­tic pan­els is an easy and cheap way to hide pipes. The pan­els are not afraid of damp or air, they do not deform, they are easy to replace if you want to change the inte­ri­or.

To com­plete the sheath­ing, you will need a base and a met­al pro­file and U‑corners. If you know the tech­nol­o­gy of lay­ing plas­tic ceil­ing pan­els, then every­thing is sim­i­lar here.

  • Before start­ing work, be sure to take mea­sure­ments and make mark­ings;
  • Met­al guides are attached around the perime­ter to the wall;
  • Plas­tic is cut to the required dimen­sions;
  • The ini­tial pan­els are screwed to the pro­file with the lock­ing part, and then sim­ply assem­bled with the help of latch­es;
  • The last ele­ment is fixed with a fix­ing screw.

Instal­la­tion of the screen under the bath­room is car­ried out in the same way. In this way, you can dis­guise pipes near the floor, coun­ters.

Method number 6

Plumb­ing shut­ters. This is an unusu­al, mod­ern way to mask pipes in a bath­room or bath­room.

The main advan­tage of this design is full access to com­mu­ni­ca­tions. Thanks to a wide range of col­ors, they are easy to match with your inte­ri­or and will be a great addi­tion to a high-tech or loft-style bath­room.

Using roller shut­ters to mask pipes

There are two options for the lift­ing mech­a­nism: mechan­i­cal and elec­tric. You should choose based on the size of the room, the con­di­tions of com­mu­ni­ca­tions. The frame can be made of dry­wall. To ensure sta­ble oper­a­tion of the mech­a­nism, it is nec­es­sary to install roller shut­ters par­al­lel to the floor and wall sur­faces.

Method number 7

To save space, pipes can be sunk into the walls. This is a com­plex, rad­i­cal process. In addi­tion, the dis­ad­van­tage is the com­plex­i­ty of the repair work. There­fore, it is impor­tant dur­ing the work to pro­vide pre­ven­tive mea­sures to elim­i­nate leaks. To do this, it is advis­able to sol­der the fit­tings direct­ly, and when lay­ing the strobe, equip them with foam rub­ber sleeves. The insu­lat­ing mate­r­i­al will elim­i­nate con­den­sa­tion and pre­vent hot water pipes from expand­ing too much.

Tech­nol­o­gy of lay­ing com­mu­ni­ca­tions in the wall

At the begin­ning of work, a schemat­ic draw­ing on paper is nec­es­sar­i­ly made. Next, do the fol­low­ing:

  • Shut off the water sup­ply in the base­ment, as the pipes will have to be moved. If we are talk­ing about a bath­room, you will have to drown out the sew­er;
  • Punch the pipe lay­ing place in the walls with a per­fo­ra­tor. Use a res­pi­ra­tor, as there will be a lot of dust;
  • After installing the water sup­ply, hold it open for sev­er­al days to check the reli­a­bil­i­ty and tight­ness of the bay­o­nets;
  • Then you can seal them with cement mor­tar;
  • Only after the solu­tion is com­plete­ly dry, fin­ish­ing work is car­ried out.

I must say that there are pipe ele­ments that can­not be masked. These include:

  • Con­nec­tion points of fit­tings in the form of let­ters X, T, G. These are the most vul­ner­a­ble places with a high risk of leak­age;
  • Do not embed met­al pipes into walls, as well as sol­dered cop­per joints;
  • All thread­ed, valve ele­ments that need con­stant access.

Recommendations of the masters and possible errors

There are sev­er­al rules for mask­ing com­mu­ni­ca­tions that should be fol­lowed.

  • First, try to avoid mul­ti­ple joints when installing com­mu­ni­ca­tions. To do this, you need to con­duct a com­pe­tent wiring.
  • Sec­ond­ly, it is impor­tant that the joints are strong and sol­dered from the same mate­r­i­al.
  • Third­ly, be sure to leave access to meters, valves, taps.

Use insu­lat­ing mate­r­i­al to pre­vent con­den­sa­tion.

Conclusion

Each method of mask­ing pipes has its own advan­tages and dis­ad­van­tages. But what­ev­er method you choose, the main thing is to fol­low all the rules dur­ing the work, then your com­mu­ni­ca­tions will not be a weak point in the inte­ri­or of the room.

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