Underfloor heating is a very popular type of heating today, used both independently and along with other systems. When it appeared, it was used mainly on the first floors of buildings, using a concrete screed.
Such a screed has a rather large weight (about 300 kg per m2) and cannot be used in most wooden houses, especially on the second and third floors, since the structural floors simply cannot withstand such a load.
The Finns were the first to install warm floors without a wet screed, who came up with a special technology using hypno-fiber sheets. Over time, more and more new laying methods have appeared that allow the use of this type of heating system in any buildings, regardless of their strength and number of storeys. They make it easy to lay pipes with a coolant not only in full-fledged residential buildings, but even in such light buildings as a wooden sauna or bath.
Today we will consider several ways to step-by-step install a warm floor on wooden logs, although in reality there are many more of them, and some changes can be made to each depending on the design features of the room.
Warm water floor for wooden floors step by step
So, we step by step make a water floor on a wooden one. If the latter needs to be done from scratch, then work will start from the following points:
- Logs are the basis of a wooden floor, and its arrangement begins with their installation. They are laid at a distance of 60 cm from each other, which guarantees high quality and durability of the future surface. Fastening is carried out using special galvanized supports, which can be bought at any hardware store.
- After the logs are fixed, a subfloor is laid out from ordinary boards, which is necessary for laying waterproofing and insulation. It is necessary to wrap the logs themselves with a waterproofing film. As a heater, you can use a mineral slab on a basalt basis, laid in several layers so that its total thickness is 10 cm.
- On top of the hydro- and heat-insulating layer, boards of the main floor are laid and mounted on the logs.
If you already have a finished wooden floor, and you only have to arrange a warm floor, you skip the previous paragraphs and deal exclusively with the preparation of the base. It is thoroughly cleaned of debris, if necessary, leveled to an acceptable standard.
In the step-by-step instructions for a warm water floor on a wooden floor, the next item is the installation of a dry screed, in which the underfloor heating pipes will be located. It can be made from a variety of materials: gypsum-fiber sheets, polystyrene foam, chipboard and others. In our article on how to make a water-heated floor on a wooden base step by step, we will consider the option with chipboard.
- Pre-prepared chipboard boards are laid on the finishing floor. In order to correctly cut out the fragments, the whole board is attached to the logs and a contour is applied to it, along which the pipes will be located. The corners of the strips are made rounded in those places where the system will bend. We lay the finished fragments in the following sequence: first, one row along the walls, and then over the entire area of u200bu200bthe room. We leave a gap between the strips, sufficient to lay pipes in it, but at the same time not leaving too much free space.
2. We mount heat spreaders — special metal sheets made of galvanized steel or aluminum, and having special profiles for pipes. They are necessary in order for the system to work more efficiently, and heat is distributed evenly over the entire surface of the floor. If you want to save money, you can use ordinary galvanized iron sheets sold at any hardware store. Their thickness should be 0.5 mm. Metal sheets are attached to the laid chipboard with simple nails.
3. We lay the pipes of the heating system in the grooves of the metal sheets, which are then connected to the collector.
4. The system is pressure tested (filled with water and kept under pressure) in order to make sure that it is tight and operable.
5. Sheets of plywood are attached to the laid out structure using self-tapping screws. They must be at least 1 cm thick. A 0.5 mm wide gap is left between the plywood, which can be filled with sealant if desired. It is necessary so that the finished floor does not deform if the wood absorbs moisture and expands.
6. In the step-by-step instructions for a water-heated floor on a wooden base, the last step is laying the finish flooring. Using the described technology, it can be made from any materials — tiles, laminate, carpet. If a laminate is chosen, then a plywood underlay is not used due to the thermal insulation properties of this material. If you have to lay linoleum, you can not choose cheap options, since when heated they can emit an unpleasant odor.
Tips: 1. For a warm floor, it is better to purchase pipes with a diameter of 1.6 cm, since it is in them that the coolant circulates in the most optimal way.
- Do not make the length of the heating circuit more than 100 m, because when traveling longer distances, the coolant will cool down, and in some areas the floor temperature will be significantly lower. If you need a longer contour, it is better to break it into sections.
- In order to make the heating system more efficient, experts recommend using foil pipe windings.
- Chipboard modules, milled at the factory and ready for use, can be bought at specialized hardware stores. Such kits include all the necessary components — from fasteners to metal heat spreaders and pipes. The cost of such sets significantly exceeds the price of conventional sheets, but at the same time, labor costs and time for creating a dry screed are significantly reduced.
- Correctly select the circuit along which you will lay the pipes — the “snake” simply fits, but is only suitable for small rooms, since the coolant has time to cool down along the way, and cold spots will form in some areas of the floor. In large rooms it is better to use a “spiral”.
The second option for arranging a warm floor along the lags
There is another technology that many may like. It is done step by step as follows:
- Between the lags, a raised floor is made of wooden boards, OSB and chipboard.
- A heater is laid between the beams, for which it is best to use expanded polystyrene with bosses. It not only has excellent thermal conductivity characteristics, but also allows you to quickly and conveniently lay pipes and metal reflectors. The surface of the insulation should practically reach the upper edge of the log, but at the same time the elements of the warm floor should not rest against the substrate.
- In the logs, grooves are prepared in those places where the pipes will cross them. The pipes themselves must be wrapped in corrugation in those places where they will pass through the groove, so that as a result of thermal expansion of materials they do not rub against the wood.
- Metal heat reflectors and water pipes are laid.
- The system is tested for operability and tightness, after which it is possible to start manufacturing the substrate and finishing.
Underfloor heating with insulation
In order to shorten the workflow, underfloor heating pipes can be placed directly on the insulation layer located on the raised floor. In this case, only polystyrene should be used as a heater, which will make the system work as efficiently as possible. Mineral wool does not have such heat-conducting properties.
With this method, the pipes will be located below the lag level. The space can be filled to the desired level with a gypsum mixture, or, if you want to completely dispense with wet processes, fill it with ordinary sand. These materials will become a kind of analogue of a concrete screed, albeit less effective, and will conduct heat to the main floor.
The easiest option for laying a warm floor on the logs
There is a very simple option for laying a warm floor along the logs, which does not involve creating a screed at all. It is mounted much faster, but at the same time it has a significant drawback: due to the lack of heat-conducting materials, the floor heats up worse, and a certain part of the heat does not go up, but down. According to this technology, the heat-distributing elements are attached directly to the logs themselves, and the pipes, as it were, sag in their gutters above the raised floor. Metal plates in this case also act as another leveling layer before finishing the floor.
Conclusion. Properly designed and installed underfloor heating can significantly influence the temperature and create a comfortable environment in the house. Installing a warm water floor on a wooden base is not as difficult a task as it might initially seem to a person who does not have much experience in construction work. If you strictly follow the instructions, you will be able to make a high-quality heating system that will last for many years. There are a lot of technologies for installing systems on logs, so everyone chooses the most suitable one for themselves, depending on the characteristics of the room and their own capabilities.