Underfloor heating water under the laminate

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Cre­at­ing cozi­ness and com­fort­able mod­ern envi­ron­ment in your own home is one of the tasks that we solve through­out our lives. Over­haul in our homes is often asso­ci­at­ed with the desire to equip new com­mu­ni­ca­tions, to make the main struc­tur­al ele­ments of res­i­den­tial premis­es prac­ti­cal, beau­ti­ful and com­fort­able. In this regard, it will be inter­est­ing to con­sid­er a com­bi­na­tion of new tech­nolo­gies and new fin­ish­ing mate­ri­als. Under­floor heat­ing is a heat­ing sys­tem, which today is con­sid­ered one of the most effi­cient and prac­ti­cal inter­acts with floor cov­er­ings. Among all cur­rent­ly used floor fin­ish­ing mate­ri­als, lam­i­nate is in the first posi­tion.

How do under­floor heat­ing and lam­i­nate floor­ing actu­al­ly fit togeth­er? Lay­ing lam­i­nate on a warm floor is a fair­ly com­mon phe­nom­e­non in pri­vate hous­ing con­struc­tion. Con­sumers are cap­ti­vat­ed by the fact that a water heat­ed floor under a lam­i­nate is able to solve the prob­lem of heat­ing res­i­den­tial premis­es and, at the same time, is dis­tin­guished by high aes­thet­ic data. The instal­la­tion tech­nol­o­gy of under­floor heat­ing with water heat­ing cir­cuits with lam­i­nat­ed floor­ing is not par­tic­u­lar­ly dif­fi­cult. Every­one can do such work in their own home, even­tu­al­ly get­ting a beau­ti­ful floor and an effi­cient heat­ing sys­tem.

Laminated warm floor. Peculiarities

The prin­ci­ple of oper­a­tion of a warm floor is the abil­i­ty to heat the sur­face of the floor due to the heat trans­ferred by the coolant. As a result of the inter­ac­tion of the heat­ing cir­cuit laid in the floor and sur­faces, the inter­nal space of the heat­ed room is heat­ed. The sys­tem cir­cu­lates a coolant with a cer­tain tem­per­a­ture (up to 500C), but on top of the pipeline lies a con­crete screed and floor­ing. Con­crete has excel­lent ther­mal con­duc­tiv­i­ty, so the screed per­forms not only a con­struc­tive func­tion in a res­i­den­tial build­ing, but also has the largest heat­ing sur­face. The heat from the con­crete screed is even­ly dis­trib­uted through­out the room.

In order for the oper­a­tion of the heat­ing sys­tem to be effec­tive and effi­cient, it is impor­tant to choose a floor cov­er­ing that meets the nec­es­sary require­ments in this case. Here it is already nec­es­sary to take into account not only the beau­ty and aes­thet­ic data of the mate­r­i­al, but also its tech­no­log­i­cal char­ac­ter­is­tics. Tra­di­tion­al­ly, a warm water floor, the con­tour of which is the main work­ing tool, is hid­den in a con­crete screed or in a floor struc­ture. There­fore, on the pre­pared sur­face, you can safe­ly lay a lam­i­nate spe­cial­ly made for a warm water floor. Such a coat­ing will imme­di­ate­ly give the room a pre­sentable look, make your con­tact with the floor pleas­ant to the touch.

What are the fea­tures of lam­i­nate floor heat­ing?

Lam­i­nate is a type of wood floor­ing, but com­pared to con­ven­tion­al boards and par­quet, it has bet­ter tech­no­log­i­cal char­ac­ter­is­tics.

On a note: despite the fact that many con­sid­er lam­i­nate to be an unsuit­able mate­r­i­al for under­floor heat­ing, its lat­est mod­i­fi­ca­tions pro­duced by for­eign com­pa­nies have qual­i­ta­tive­ly improved the over­all pic­ture.

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Here it is worth men­tion­ing two main aspects that are put for­ward by oppo­nents of the use of wood-con­tain­ing mate­ri­als for fin­ish­ing hot water floors.

  • First aspect. The rea­son for this skep­ti­cism is that this mate­r­i­al is 90% wood based. Wood, as you know, does not have a high ther­mal con­duc­tiv­i­ty, so when work­ing with a warm water floor, there may be prob­lems with heat trans­fer. The water cir­cuit heats the screed, which in turn gives off heat to the floor cov­er­ing. At this stage, it already becomes clear whether the floor sur­face is heat­ed enough or most of the heat is cap­tured and absorbed by the lam­i­nat­ed board.
  • Sec­ond aspect. The next point to which oppo­nents of the use of lam­i­nate as a floor­ing appeal is harm­ful phe­no­lic fumes. Here we can part­ly agree. Mod­i­fi­ca­tions of the mate­r­i­al used for floor fin­ish­ing con­tain formalde­hyde. When heat­ed, formalde­hyde begins to evap­o­rate inten­sive­ly into the sur­round­ing space, which can cause sig­nif­i­cant harm to the inhab­i­tants of the home. How­ev­er, in the case of under­floor heat­ing, the sit­u­a­tion does not look so crit­i­cal. Espe­cial­ly for this heat­ing option, a coat­ing is pro­duced that con­tains harm­ful sub­stances and com­po­nents in min­i­mal quan­ti­ties.

In order to avoid trou­ble in the future, when pur­chas­ing a lam­i­nate, you need to look at its mark­ing.

Hav­ing omit­ted the cons and bet­ting on this mate­r­i­al, we can say that there will be more advan­tages in the future.

The lam­i­nate has a small­er thick­ness com­pared to a wood­en board, how­ev­er, due to the pro­duc­tion tech­nol­o­gy, the den­si­ty of the mate­r­i­al is quite high and, accord­ing­ly, the strength is high, at least 900 kg / m2. Cov­ered with a spe­cial film, the mate­r­i­al is suf­fi­cient­ly resis­tant to mois­ture, both from below and from the out­side, on the front side. The lam­i­nat­ing lay­er gives the prod­uct a spe­cial gloss and respectabil­i­ty, com­ple­ment­ing the beau­ti­ful pat­tern.

Nuances in terms of selecting the optimal brand of material

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With thick­ness, the sit­u­a­tion is more or less clear. It remains only to fig­ure out which lam­i­nate is suit­able for use with under­floor heat­ing. Lay­ing lam­i­nate on a warm floor will be suc­cess­ful if you pur­chase mate­r­i­al with the appro­pri­ate mark­ing.

Marking

Today, most prod­ucts that are specif­i­cal­ly designed to inter­act with warm water floors are labeled “Warm wass­er”, which lit­er­al­ly means “hot water”. The fig­ure shows the icons that can be found on prod­ucts offered today in the dis­tri­b­u­tion net­work.

Under­floor heat­ing lam­i­nate must be com­pat­i­ble with under­floor heat­ing options. Usu­al­ly, next to the mark­ing icon, the val­ue of the rec­om­mend­ed heat­ing tem­per­a­ture of the mate­r­i­al is placed. As a rule, it is 27–280FROM.

When pur­chas­ing mate­r­i­al, pay atten­tion to the con­tents of the accom­pa­ny­ing doc­u­men­ta­tion. Usu­al­ly, man­u­fac­tur­ers write in the pass­port the desired types of heat­ing equip­ment, meth­ods and inten­si­ty of heat­ing.

Impor­tant! Do not use a lam­i­nate designed for lin­ing a warm elec­tric floor in com­bi­na­tion with water heat­ed floors. The same prin­ci­ple is valid in reverse. Elec­tric and water floors are tiled only with tiles spe­cial­ly made for each type of heat­ing.

Thermal resistance coefficient

Do not omit the heat-insu­lat­ing prop­er­ties of fac­ing mate­ri­als. Also, as an impor­tant para­me­ter, pay atten­tion to the ther­mal resis­tance of the mate­r­i­al (ther­mal resistence). For hot water floors, lam­i­nat­ed boards are spe­cial­ly pro­duced with accept­able para­me­ters for heat trans­fer. The high­er the coef­fi­cient of ther­mal resis­tance, the more the lam­i­nate will retain heat. It is nec­es­sary to lay a warm floor using a sub­strate, which also has its own coef­fi­cient of ther­mal resis­tance.

For exam­ple: you pur­chased a lam­i­nate with a coef­fi­cient of 0.051 m2x K/W. The sub­strate has a coef­fi­cient of 0.049 m2xK /W. As a result, we have a total ther­mal resis­tance val­ue of 0.1 m2hK/W. This val­ue is in accor­dance with accept­ed stan­dards. The total ther­mal resis­tance val­ue for a lam­i­nate floor­ing with Euro­pean stan­dards should not be more than 0.15 m2hK/W.

The ther­mal resis­tance index direct­ly depends on the den­si­ty and thick­ness of the mate­r­i­al. For water heat­ed floors, it is rec­om­mend­ed to use tiles whose thick­ness does not exceed 8–10 mm. Neglect of tech­no­log­i­cal para­me­ters can lead to the fact that the low­er part of the mate­r­i­al will over­heat, which will result in dam­age to the floor cov­er­ing.

The last aspect to pay atten­tion to is the class of the mate­r­i­al.

Laminate class

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In this regard, the pic­ture is as fol­lows. The high­er the class, the bet­ter the qual­i­ty of the mate­r­i­al, the less its sur­face is sub­ject to abra­sion. It should be not­ed that under the influ­ence of the heat­ing cir­cuit, the lam­i­nate is in a com­plex phys­i­cal state, so it would be bet­ter if the tiles on the warm water floor are made with mate­ri­als of class 32 or 33.

As a rule, all prod­ucts marked accord­ing­ly for under­floor heat­ing have the required strength class.

There is anoth­er impor­tant detail that you should pay atten­tion to when buy­ing mate­r­i­al, the area of ​​u200bu200buse. Not every mate­r­i­al will be equal­ly suit­able for floor­ing in dif­fer­ent premis­es.

Heat­ed premis­es are con­di­tion­al­ly divid­ed into three zones:

  • Sleep­ing area — rest rooms, bed­rooms;
  • Work­ing area — kitchen, pantry;
  • Tran­sit zone — Kori­lo, entrance hall;
  • Recre­ation and relax­ation area — bal­conies, log­gias, bath­room.

In each indi­vid­ual case, a cer­tain type of mate­r­i­al is select­ed, on which there are cor­re­spond­ing marks. The divi­sion takes place accord­ing to the class and the lev­el of formalde­hyde con­tent.

The pro­posed video tells in great detail about how to choose the right lam­i­nate and for what pur­pos­es:

Laying laminate on the finished screed. Features and nuances

Despite the fact that the instal­la­tion of a water heat­ing floor is already a labo­ri­ous and painstak­ing task in itself, lay­ing the fin­ish­ing floor cov­er­ing becomes impor­tant. Not only the aes­thet­ic con­di­tion of your home and the lev­el of com­fort, but also the effi­cien­cy of the heat­ing sys­tem depends on what mate­r­i­al you use.

On a note: the slight­est tech­no­log­i­cal vio­la­tions at the time of lay­ing the water cir­cuit can lead to uneven heat­ing of the floor sur­face. Accord­ing­ly, the “capri­cious” lam­i­nate will behave dif­fer­ent­ly on such areas of the floor sur­face.

When con­sid­er­ing the instal­la­tion of under­floor heat­ing, it is impor­tant to deter­mine in advance which method is right for you, under a screed or using a floor­ing sys­tem. In the first option, you will have to lay the fin­ish­ing floor cov­er­ing on the fin­ished sur­face of the mature screed, in the sec­ond case, the lam­i­nate is laid on the pre­pared stacked struc­ture. It’s worth not­ing right away. Both in the first case and in the sec­ond, a per­fect­ly flat sur­face is required for the nor­mal behav­ior of the lam­i­nat­ed plates.

Lay­ing a hot water floor under a con­crete screed looks prefer­able and is very con­ve­nient in cas­es where the design of a res­i­den­tial build­ing allows you to equip the heat­ing sys­tem in this way. For wood­en hous­es, where there is a wood­en floor base and wood­en floors, you will have to lim­it your­self to a floor­ing sys­tem. The load cre­at­ed by the con­crete screed (accord­ing to cal­cu­la­tions, this is about 3–4 tons for an aver­age room) will be crit­i­cal for wood­en floors.

Impor­tant! Lam­i­nat­ed plates are laid only after start­ing the heat­ing sys­tem. With­in 2–3 days, the heat­ing is checked in all oper­at­ing modes, the con­di­tion of the screed is assessed.

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The meth­ods of lay­ing lam­i­nate on both sur­faces are fun­da­men­tal­ly the same. There are only a num­ber of tech­no­log­i­cal sub­tleties, the obser­vance of which will pro­vide you with a beau­ti­ful, and at the same time, warm floor. A set of plates is car­ried out from one cor­ner of the room towards adja­cent cor­ners, along the entire perime­ter of the heat­ed room.

Recall these sub­tleties:

First. Lam­i­nate under­floor heat­ing should not be cov­ered with car­pets and sticks, there­by not cre­at­ing over­heat­ing of the floor cov­er­ing. For the same rea­son, it is not rec­om­mend­ed to install fur­ni­ture on the floor in places where heat­ing cir­cuits pass. Try to avoid using under­floor heat­ing with lam­i­nate floor­ing in areas where radi­a­tors are locat­ed close to each oth­er.

Sec­ond. By rely­ing on lam­i­nate as the main floor­ing, try to solve the prob­lem with the ven­ti­la­tion of the floor sur­face. For these pur­pos­es, when lay­ing the plates at the inter­face with the walls, a gap of 10–12 mm is left. The gap is sub­se­quent­ly eas­i­ly closed with a dec­o­ra­tive plinth.

Third. In order for your lam­i­nate to behave ade­quate­ly to the envi­ron­ment inside the heat­ed room, install sev­er­al ther­mostats on the heat­ing equip­ment that can pre­vent over­heat­ing of the water cir­cuit and, accord­ing­ly, the entire floor sur­face.

Fourth. Before instal­la­tion, the floor mate­r­i­al is placed in a heat­ed room for adap­ta­tion. The plates in a short time will gain the nec­es­sary mois­ture, get used to a sta­ble tem­per­a­ture. Such a pro­ce­dure will cer­tain­ly affect the qual­i­ty and speed of assem­bly of the floor cov­er­ing.

conclusions

In con­clu­sion, I would like to say the fol­low­ing. The per­for­mance of a “warm water floor” home heat­ing sys­tem that inter­acts with lam­i­nate floor­ing is quite suc­cess­ful and effi­cient. Observ­ing all the rules and fea­tures of lay­ing tech­nol­o­gy, adher­ing to strict mate­r­i­al selec­tion cri­te­ria, you your­self can guar­an­tee the nec­es­sary com­fort and cozi­ness inside the heat­ed room.

Do not exper­i­ment with lam­i­nate floor­ing. Over­heat­ing, flood­ing with water can adverse­ly affect the qual­i­ty of your floor. If you want to have beau­ti­ful and pleas­ant to the touch floors in the house, make sure that the indoor humid­i­ty is not low­er than 50–60%.

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