Varieties of devices for cutting pipes with a grinder


Met­al prod­ucts dur­ing weld­ing are the main objects for ver­sa­tile pro­cess­ing. Accord­ing to sta­tis­tics, among them, cut­ting pipes with a grinder tool becomes the most com­mon type. A vari­ety of noz­zles allows you to per­form grind­ing and pol­ish­ing. They are a sec­ondary type of work that fol­lows cut­ting.

Varieties of devices

Attach­ments to the grinder dif­fer in the func­tions that they can per­form:

  • smooth cut­ting;
  • grind­ing;
  • cut­ting bars and pipes (diam­e­ter with­in 50–125 mm);
  • clean­ing and peel­ing of obso­lete lay­ers of sur­faces;
  • pol­ish­ing;
  • use as a chain saw;
  • col­lec­tion of dust dur­ing the process.

The most pop­u­lar among devices for high-qual­i­ty cut­ting of pipes with a grinder are cut­ting discs. This type of prod­ucts is pro­duced by numer­ous domes­tic and for­eign devel­op­ers. Sep­a­rate­ly, it is worth not­ing the uni­ver­sal Japan­ese noz­zles of the Hitachi brand.

Japan­ese noz­zles of the brand Hitachi

How to make a do-it-yourself device for cutting pipes with an angle grinder


Buy­ing a ready-made machine is easy. But this option involves a lot of ensu­ing prob­lems in fur­ther work, since most struc­tures do not have a suf­fi­cient degree of rigid­i­ty. This is due to the mate­r­i­al used — dura­lu­min. This fac­tor forces the own­ers to either cre­ate new, more durable and accu­rate designs for cut­ting pipes with a grinder, or improve the cur­rent ones.

In fact, it turns out that mak­ing your own rigid base for future work is much more con­ve­nient. It is more dif­fi­cult to remake pre­vi­ous­ly devel­oped prod­ucts by some­one. In addi­tion, this approach often has a num­ber of lim­i­ta­tions due to design fea­tures.

Cut­ting a pipe of var­i­ous diam­e­ters and thick­ness­es with a grinder is pos­si­ble by cre­at­ing two types of sta­tion­ary cut­ting machines:

  • A sim­ple option is to attach the tool to the work­bench with addi­tion­al mate­ri­als.
  • The com­plex ver­sion includes the pre­vi­ous lay­out, as well as a num­ber of addi­tion­al actions to cre­ate more rigid­i­ty of the tool dur­ing trans­la­tion­al move­ments. For this rea­son, it takes more time, but allows for bet­ter accu­ra­cy.
Pipe cut­ter


Basic moments

Cut­ting pro­file pipes is a sim­ple process. But it is she who requires high accu­ra­cy, which lies in the accu­ra­cy and even­ness of the final cut. There­fore, the orga­ni­za­tion of the future process must be thought out and requires the devel­op­ment of a home-made or pur­chased machine. To do this, you will need tools in the form of an elec­tric drill and a weld­ing machine. In addi­tion to them, you will need a set of the fol­low­ing con­sum­ables:

  • met­al plates,
  • pro­files,
  • stan­dard list of fas­ten­ers (nuts, bolts, wash­ers).

The man­u­fac­ture of sim­ple fix­tures for effi­cient pipe cut­ting with a grinder can be done in a few hours. The skele­ton will then be a long met­al pipe, which will play the role of a han­dle and a frame at the same time. A trans­verse bar is weld­ed to one of the ends. It should have two holes for the sub­se­quent fas­ten­ing of the grinder.

Impor­tant! For an even more reli­able fit, attach to one of the edges of the pipe to a cor­ner with a mov­able shaft. The cor­ner is fixed to the table­top or to the floor. A spring is fixed on the oppo­site side of the fas­ten­er. It helps to ensure the return move­ment of the entire struc­ture dur­ing oper­a­tion.


The final stage is the fix­ing of the grinder itself. The machine options described in brief are suit­able for sim­ple types of work. Details on the required parts and con­sum­ables, as well as the cre­ation of a high-pre­ci­sion machine for using the angle grinder while cut­ting pipes of dif­fer­ent diam­e­ters and thick­ness­es are list­ed below.

Fas­ten­ing grinder

Cutting machine (simple version)

A sim­ple imple­men­ta­tion method con­sists of mak­ing a base, on which sta­ble con­nect­ing ele­ments are sub­se­quent­ly attached to accom­mo­date the mov­able plate. The list of works on the cre­ation of a cut­ting machine:

  • For the pro­ce­dure, you should select a plate with a thick­ness of at least 2 mm and dimen­sions of 15 by 15 or 10 by 10 mm. A short one will be need­ed if you have an iron work­bench.
  • Next, two rec­tan­gu­lar plates are weld­ed at a dis­tance of 5–8 cm between them. The dimen­sions of the ele­ments along the length will be about 8–10 cm, depend­ing on the fea­tures of the pow­er tool.
  • Straight holes are made at the base of the plates. Con­nect­ing bolts are installed in them.
  • Then a steel plate of about 20–30 cm is tak­en. The width should be less than the dis­tance between the pre­vi­ous plates.
  • An elon­gat­ed sleeve is weld­ed onto the reverse side of the mov­able ele­ment. Sub­se­quent­ly, a bolt for con­nec­tion is placed in it.
  • The tool is fas­tened to the mov­able plate using ties, clamps or iden­ti­cal meth­ods. The num­ber must be strict­ly greater than 2.
  • Fix­ing the tool to the work­bench.
  • Work test­ing.
Cut­ting machine


Some­times, in some cas­es, the han­dle is weld­ed and an auto-return spring is installed. The lat­ter will allow you to move the angle grinder up as need­ed. In gen­er­al, the sim­plic­i­ty of the option allows you to use a min­i­mum num­ber of struc­tur­al details and at the same time ful­ly orga­nize the cut­ting process.

Cutting machine for precision work

To car­ry out work with a high degree of accu­ra­cy, a more com­plex ver­sion of the cre­ation of the unit is used. The basic list will include the fol­low­ing items:

  • Met­al pro­files (15–20 cm);
  • Met­al sheet (thick­ness — 2–3 mm);
  • Sleeve (10–15 cm);
  • Met­al cor­ner;
  • Hair­pin (length — 20 cm);
  • Puck set.

Stages of cre­at­ing a high-pre­ci­sion cut­ting machine:

  • Cut­ting the stud and plac­ing a sleeve inside it. Tight­en­ing nuts on both sides. It is bet­ter to tight­en two nuts, which will cre­ate the effect of a lock nut.
  • The nuts are not com­plete­ly screwed in to avoid con­tact with the sleeve.
  • Weld­ing the struc­ture to a steel sheet with free move­ment of the sleeve.
  • Fas­ten­ers are made on the basis of met­al pro­files. They are cut to the desired size and wash­ers are weld­ed to them. 2 or 3 mounts rec­om­mend­ed.
  • The han­dles are attached to the thread­ed holes to the base of the mov­able type using the brack­ets obtained in the pre­vi­ous step. Fas­ten­ing is car­ried out by con­nect­ing with bolts.
  • The reverse ends of each of the pro­files are weld­ed to the sleeve.
Machine for pre­ci­sion work

It is worth not­ing that the cor­ner in a con­struc­tive plan is nec­es­sary as a guide. It makes it pos­si­ble to cen­ter cut­ting mate­ri­als. If a straight hole is made in the sheet, then an even high­er lev­el of accu­ra­cy will be ensured dur­ing the cut. For this rea­son, such designs are often called pen­du­lum saws.

Milling machine

At the heart of the milling machine is the dri­ving ele­ment — the cut­ter. With its help, the pro­cess­ing of flat and shaped sur­faces occurs. In the case of using a grinder, the machine can be made in two vari­a­tions:

  • With a mov­able angle grinder (angle grinder), the tool mount is locat­ed in a ver­ti­cal plane with respect to a spe­cial frame. With its help, the grinder moves along the milled work­piece.
  • With a rigid­ly fixed angle grinder, the grinder is motion­less, and the work­piece moves in the intend­ed direc­tion.

To make a milling machine, you will need the fol­low­ing list of mate­ri­als:

  • angle grinder;
  • weld­ing machine;
  • a set of fas­ten­ers;
  • screw­driv­er;
  • lev­el;
  • elec­tric drill;
  • square;
  • Chip­board or ply­wood sheet;
  • wrench­es and hex keys;
  • jig­saw;
  • met­al cor­ners;
  • punch;
  • file;
  • sand­pa­per.
Milling machine


A sta­tion­ary milling machine involves a struc­ture con­sist­ing of a sta­ble base, a mov­able or fixed table­top with a rail (as a ruler) and a dri­ve. For hor­i­zon­tal cut­ting, it is nec­es­sary to fix the angle grinder to the plate, install the guides and fix the work­piece to be processed on the work­ing sur­face. Pro­cess­ing is car­ried out by a mov­able prod­uct.

With a fixed angle grinder, it is required to make a mobile work sur­face. To do this, the table­top itself moves. Guides for fix­ing are designed on it. The angle grinder itself in this case is mount­ed on a ver­ti­cal-type frame on the side in rela­tion to the work­bench.

Par­tic­u­lar atten­tion should be paid to the caps of the screws. They must be com­plete­ly recessed, must not pro­trude above the work sur­faces. Before car­ry­ing out all the process­es, cut­ters should be pur­chased that will serve as attach­ments for the grinder.

Cut­ters may look like cut­ting discs or key bits. The first will sim­ply replace the grind­ing wheel and will be attached to the shaft with a clamp­ing nut. For the sec­ond, you will addi­tion­al­ly need a spe­cial adapter.

What does the struc­ture look like

Precautionary measures

Work­ing with an angle grinder implies the pres­ence of a cer­tain dan­ger, there­fore, sep­a­rate oper­at­ing rules are nec­es­sar­i­ly sub­ject to this type of work:

  • the angle grinder noz­zle must nec­es­sar­i­ly cor­re­spond to the mate­r­i­al for fur­ther pro­cess­ing;
  • it is for­bid­den to remove the pro­tec­tive case;
  • the speed of the angle grinder must cor­re­spond to a min­i­mum;
  • the grinder must cor­re­spond to the pow­er loads of the employ­ee using it (it can escape from the hands);
  • tool fas­ten­ing must be rigid;
  • work must be done with pro­tec­tive gloves;
  • the sur­face of the work­piece must be checked for uni­for­mi­ty (espe­cial­ly for met­al parts);
  • all actions can be per­formed only with­in the same plane;
  • dis­tor­tions dur­ing oper­a­tion are pro­hib­it­ed;
  • in the oper­at­ing mode, the but­ton can­not be blocked;
  • The pow­er to the pow­er tool must be turned off when chang­ing discs and attach­ments.


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