Warm floor under linoleum on a wooden floor


Per­haps noth­ing cre­ates such com­fort in the apart­ment as a feel­ing of warmth and com­fort under your feet. There­fore, many peo­ple are think­ing about equip­ping their bed­rooms, bath­rooms, kitchens and oth­er rooms with the “Warm floor” sys­tem, in which the heat source is locat­ed direct­ly under the floor cov­er­ing.

But here rea­son­able ques­tions arise: Is it suit­able for floor cov­er­ings of var­i­ous types? For exam­ple, is it pos­si­ble to lay a warm floor under linoleum?

The choice of underfloor heating

When choos­ing a warm floor used in con­junc­tion with a linoleum coat­ing, the spe­cif­ic char­ac­ter­is­tics of this mate­r­i­al should be tak­en into account. There­fore, it is very impor­tant to fol­low cer­tain rules here:

linoleum rolls

  1. The floor tem­per­a­ture dur­ing heat­ing should not rise above 28–30 degrees. Its excess can cause a change in the shade and shape of the linoleum. That is, the pow­er of the heat­ing sys­tem should not exceed 180 W / m2.
  2. The basis for linoleum, cov­er­ing the struc­ture of under­floor heat­ing, should be as uni­form and smooth as pos­si­ble.as any irreg­u­lar­i­ties will show through the fin­ish coat­ing, mak­ing it look unaes­thet­ic.


The heat car­ri­er (hot water) cir­cu­lat­ing through the pipes is used as a heat­ing source.. In apart­ments with cen­tral heat­ing, this method of heat­ing is used very rarely. This is due to the com­plex­i­ty of the instal­la­tion work, as well as the need to sig­nif­i­cant­ly raise the floor lev­el, which caus­es the ceil­ings to drop, mak­ing the rooms low and uncom­fort­able.

The qual­i­ty of the screed must be almost per­fect, oth­er­wise all its irreg­u­lar­i­ties and imper­fec­tions will be vis­i­ble through the coat­ing. In addi­tion, it is dif­fi­cult to lay a water-heat­ed floor under linoleum in rooms with wood­en bases.


how to lay linoleumCon­sists of a heat­ing cable laid on a pre­pared base and poured with a lay­er of screedand a reg­u­la­tor designed to main­tain the opti­mum tem­per­a­ture in the room.

Their main advan­tage is inde­pen­dence from the heat­ing sys­tem. A warm elec­tric floor under linoleum can be turned on and off if nec­es­sary and it is easy to change the tem­per­a­ture in the room using spe­cial reg­u­la­tors.

The main thing is to use high qual­i­ty linoleum with it, since cheap mate­r­i­al will emit an unpleas­ant “rub­ber” smell when heat­ed. In addi­tion, its ser­vice life will be much short­er.


It is pro­duced in the form of a thin flex­i­ble film hav­ing a thick­ness of 0.4 mm, from which rays of the infrared spec­trum emanate. The func­tion of the heat­ing ele­ments in this case is per­formed by strips of graphite, through cop­per-sil­ver con­duc­tors sup­plied with a volt­age of 220 V.

The tem­per­a­ture of such a floor is reg­u­lat­ed by a ther­mo­stat con­nect­ed to an elec­tri­cal out­let.

In rooms equipped with warm infrared floors under linoleum, a sta­ble, com­fort­able tem­per­a­ture is almost always main­tained, since they do not heat the air, but the objects in the rooms.

The choice of linoleum

Hav­ing decid­ed on the choice of heat­ing sys­tem, it remains to decide which linoleum is suit­able for under­floor heat­ing. Where­in First of all, it must be borne in mind that this coat­ing is most often of syn­thet­ic ori­gin.. That is, when heat­ed, it can release sub­stances that are haz­ardous to human health.

Cur­rent­ly, there are sev­er­al vari­eties of linoleum on sale.. For exam­ple:

  • Mar­moleum. High qual­i­ty nat­ur­al coat­ing with anti­sta­t­ic and flame retar­dant prop­er­ties.
  • Vinyl (PVC). It has a low price and good dec­o­ra­tive qual­i­ties, but emits an unpleas­ant odor when heat­ed.
  • glyptal (alkyd). Pro­duced on a fab­ric basis. May deform when exposed to high tem­per­a­tures.
  • col­loxy­clin­ic (nitro­cel­lu­lose). Thin, sin­gle-lay­er fab­ric with high mois­ture repel­len­cy, but with a high degree of flam­ma­bil­i­ty.
  • relin (rub­ber). Com­posed of rub­ber, syn­thet­ic rub­ber and bitu­men. Does not tol­er­ate high tem­per­a­tures well. It is rarely used in res­i­den­tial build­ings.

When lay­ing a warm floor under linoleum, it is also nec­es­sary to take into account what mate­ri­als the base of this coat­ing is made of. It can be nat­ur­al: fab­ric, felt or jute, or arti­fi­cial: using fiber­glass, poly­ester, PVC foam, etc.

In this case, do not use cloths on a fleecy felt or jute base, as well as on PVC foam, which have a high degree of resis­tance to tem­per­a­ture changes. Heat will not pass through them very well.

Infor­ma­tion about which linoleums are suit­able for var­i­ous under­floor heat­ing sys­tems can be pre­sent­ed in the form of a table for clar­i­ty:

Warm floor Vari­ety of linoleum
Water Mar­moleum, vinyl
Elec­tri­cal Mar­moleum, vinyl, alkyd (com­mer­cial ver­sions)
infrared Mar­moleum, vinyl, alkyd (com­mer­cial ver­sions)

Mounting and installation

When arrang­ing a warm floor under linoleum with your own hands, it is impor­tant to fol­low the tech­no­log­i­cal sequence of work and take into account the char­ac­ter­is­tics of the mate­ri­als used.

Foundation preparation

From con­crete:
screed under linoleum

After remov­ing the old coat­ing, it is inspect­ed to iden­ti­fy pos­si­ble prob­lem areas and irreg­u­lar­i­ties. If nec­es­sary, it poured with a small lay­er of cement-sand screed, to elim­i­nate exist­ing short­com­ings.

To obtain a smoother sur­face, the base is some­times addi­tion­al­ly ground.

From wood:

A “rough coat­ing” is spread­ing, which acts as the basis for the con­struc­tion of a warm floor. After that, the wood­en floor is cycled to remove all irreg­u­lar­i­ties. A lay­er of ply­wood or chip­board is laid on it.

The hor­i­zon­tal­ness of the base is con­trolled using the build­ing lev­el. The max­i­mum allow­able devi­a­tions in height must not exceed 3 mm. A lay­er of water­proof­ing mate­r­i­al (a poly­eth­yl­ene film with a thick­ness of at least 50 microns) is laid on the result­ing even, smooth and com­plete­ly free of debris sur­face.

thermal insulation

To cre­ate a heat-insu­lat­ing lay­er, spe­cial foil mate­ri­als are used. with a soft inter­lay­er, for exam­ple, infraflex, or a met­al­lized film based on poly­eth­yl­ene or lavsan.

At the joints, the sheets of the heat insu­la­tor are fas­tened with adhe­sive tape and attached to the base with a con­struc­tion sta­pler. Its lay­ing is car­ried out around the entire perime­ter of the room with the foil side up.

Film mounting

It is cut to size, in spe­cial­ly marked places with the image of lines with scis­sors. Arbi­trary cut­ting of the film, with­out observ­ing these require­ments, is not allowed. The length of the strips depends on the num­ber of con­nec­tion points, but no more than 8–10 m.

The film sheets are laid out on the base, with the cop­per side inward close to each oth­er, with­out over­lap. At the same time, their con­tacts should be direct­ed towards the wall with the ther­mo­stat.

System connection

The tem­per­a­ture con­troller includ­ed in the set of film under­floor heat­ing under linoleum can be sta­tion­ary (over­head) or con­nect­ed to a pow­er out­let using a pow­er cord.

That’s why it is bet­ter to place it on the wall in the imme­di­ate vicin­i­ty of the elec­tri­cal wiring. Mount­ing wires, pow­er cables and sig­nal wires from the tem­per­a­ture sen­sor are con­nect­ed to it, most of which will be locat­ed under the plinth.

The tem­per­a­ture sen­sor is mount­ed under the film, fixed with adhe­sive tape under car­bon paste, on a black strip, mak­ing a recess in the ther­mal insu­la­tion for tighter fix­a­tion.


In places where the con­nec­tion will not be made, the cuts of the cop­per bus are insu­lat­ed with a bitu­mi­nous insu­la­tor. In this case, all sil­ver con­tacts con­nect­ing cop­per ele­ments with car­bon heaters along the entire length must be cov­ered with insu­lat­ing mate­r­i­al.

Cop­per cur­rent-car­ry­ing strips are com­plet­ed with con­tact clamps, plac­ing one half of them inside the film, and the oth­er half out­side, fix­ing them with pli­ers.

Linoleum laying

After the instal­la­tion of the main ele­ments of the infrared floor, it is cov­ered with a dense plas­tic film, over­lap­ping it and fix­ing it with adhe­sive tape.

It is assumed that after this manip­u­la­tion, linoleum can be laid on it, but, giv­en the soft­ness of this coat­ing and its poor resis­tance to mechan­i­cal stress, before lay­ing it, the warm floor is cov­ered with ply­wood sheets, nail­ing each sheet to the base. When doing this, be extreme­ly care­ful not to dam­age the heat­ing ele­ments.

How to lay linoleum on the square, see the video:

The cost of materials and equipment

A very impor­tant ques­tion that inter­ests many con­sumers who want to equip their apart­ment with under­floor heat­ing under linoleum is the price of this coat­ing, as well as the cost of ser­vices for installing the entire sys­tem and lay­ing the fin­ish coat­ing.

Prices for infrared type film sys­tems depend on sev­er­al fac­tors.:

  • Degrees of heat resis­tance.
  • Avail­abil­i­ty of anti-spark sil­ver mesh includ­ed.
  • The pres­ence of a self-reg­u­la­tor.
  • Man­u­fac­tur­er brand and rep­u­ta­tion.

linoleum in the apartment

The aver­age prices per square meter of such floors are:

Brand Pow­er W/m2 Cost, rub.
Cale­o­Line 130 1137
Q‑TERM 150 220
Dym­co­Stan­dard DIOfilm 140 250
Cale­oGrid 150 1390

Instal­la­tion of a film under­floor heat­ing under linoleum will cost about 1300 — 15$ per square meter. This amount includes a full range of works, includ­ing the instal­la­tion of the heat­ing sys­tem and lay­ing the fin­ish coat.

The aver­age price of linoleum for under­floor heat­ingdepend­ing on the com­po­si­tion and the man­u­fac­tur­er’s com­pa­ny will be:

  • Nat­ur­al: 1380 — 2650 rubles per sq.m.
  • Semi-com­mer­cial: 330 — 780 rubles per sq.m.
  • Com­mer­cial: 340 — 8 dol­lars per sq.m.

For self-lay­ing linoleum, the fol­low­ing tools are need­ed:

  • Knife with a sharp blade for cut­ting the coat­ing.
  • Edger ham­mer for smooth­ing joints.
  • Man­u­al roller (roller for tight­ly press­ing the mate­r­i­al to the sur­face).
  • Ruler, build­ing lev­el, adhe­sive tape.
  • “Cold weld­ing”, for fill­ing joints.


To help decide whether to install under­floor heat­ing under linoleum can be reviews of peo­ple who have already tried to do this in their house or apart­ment. Here is some of them:

Anton, 32, world

“Hav­ing lived in a new apart­ment for about five years, my wife and I decid­ed to change the floor in the kitchen. And since for some rea­son we want­ed to make it more com­fort­able there, we decid­ed to make it warm. We chose an infrared film floor, and linoleum on it. The lay­ing work was done very quick­ly (hired spe­cial­ists). And every­thing would be fine if in a cou­ple of months my linoleum did not begin to deform. He looked just ter­ri­ble. In gen­er­al, we removed it and replaced it with a lam­i­nate. While sat­is­fied. So, when buy­ing linoleum for under­floor heat­ing, make sure that it is heat resis­tant enough and do not heat it too much. Oth­er­wise, just waste your mon­ey … ”

Mari­na, 42 years old. Vsevolzh­sk

“The deci­sion to install a heat­ed floor sys­tem under linoleum was inspired by our neigh­bors who tried this “plea­sure” in their apart­ment. For a long time they doubt­ed how the coat­ing would behave when heat­ed, after all, syn­thet­ics. As a result, we bought semi-com­mer­cial type mate­r­i­al. When buy­ing, we were guid­ed by the icons on the pack­age, allow­ing it to be laid on a warm floor. In gen­er­al, this linoleum has been lying with us for about a year. Won’t fade, shrink, and nev­er stink when heat­ed. So, if every­thing is cho­sen cor­rect­ly, there are no prob­lems. And, by the way, he, well, keeps heat even when the sys­tem is turned off. So we are very hap­py!”

Angeli­na, 24 years old, Pskov

“My friend is in a pri­vate house, in the bath­room, pl. 15 squares, laid linoleum on a warm elec­tric floor. Been using it for over a year now and have no regrets. It is pleas­ant to walk on it, it dries faster and faster, and there is no smell, and it does not warp. True, before lay­ing it, it was spe­cial­ly “aged” longer so that it would not deform when heat­ed. And so all is well…”

In a word, sub­ject to the rules of lay­ing and instal­la­tion, selec­tion of mate­r­i­al of appro­pri­ate qual­i­ty, with increased ther­mal pro­tec­tion, linoleum togeth­er with under­floor heat­ing can be an excel­lent solu­tion for fin­ish­ing var­i­ous rooms.

Espe­cial­ly since it is easy to use, prac­ti­cal and has a low­er cost com­pared to many oth­er fin­ish­ing mate­ri­als.

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