How pipes are replaced in the bathroom: materials and installation


Repair work in the bath­room is planned in advance and requires the study of all the details. You always want to cov­er as many prob­lem areas as pos­si­ble in order to put things in order at one time and not return to this issue again. The issue of replac­ing old pipes in the toi­let and bath­room requires care­ful study and atten­tion.

Typ­i­cal pic­ture in the bath­room

Reasons for replacing pipes in the bathroom and toilet

Bath­room remod­el­ing does not end with replac­ing out­dat­ed fin­ish­es with new ones or chang­ing faucets. The full func­tion­ing of plumb­ing is impos­si­ble with­out a com­plete replace­ment of the pipeline. In this case, not only the water sup­ply pipes are sub­ject to change, but also a com­plete alter­ation of the sew­er­age is to be done. This is not about cos­met­ic inter­ven­tion or repaint­ing of the exist­ing net­work, but a com­plete dis­as­sem­bly and sub­se­quent instal­la­tion using new mate­ri­als. Rea­sons for replac­ing sew­er and water pipes:

  • out­dat­ed appear­ance;
  • block­ages;
  • leaks;
  • bulk­i­ness;
  • mal­func­tions.

These fac­tors are con­sid­ered the rea­son for the planned replace­ment of pipes in the bath­room. In Khrushchevs and oth­er hous­es of the Sovi­et era, com­mu­ni­ca­tions were car­ried out using cast-iron pipes. As a result, over time, they were over­grown with sev­er­al dozen lay­ers of paint, acquired an awe­some appear­ance, and in some places began to crum­ble. Inside, from con­stant con­tact with water, they were cov­ered with a lay­er of rust, pol­lut­ing the water, and par­tial­ly clogged with it. It is not sur­pris­ing that when plan­ning a replace­ment, the old bulky struc­ture must be dis­man­tled.

How­ev­er, there are sit­u­a­tions when, as a result of severe dete­ri­o­ra­tion, the pipeline fails on its own, pro­vok­ing emer­gen­cies and forc­ing peo­ple to take emer­gency mea­sures. As a rule, such an inter­ven­tion is fraught with much larg­er mate­r­i­al costs than the planned change of pipes. At the same time, a planned change of pipes allows you to think through all the details, select mate­ri­als and save part of the fam­i­ly bud­get.

Pol­lu­tion of pipes from long-term oper­a­tion

Recommendations for the selection of materials


A plumb­ing or ris­er made of cast iron has long gone out of fash­ion, takes up a lot of free space and does not work. The fol­low­ing mate­ri­als will help you replace pipes with your own hands in the bath­room:

  • plas­tic;
  • met­al-plas­tic;
  • polypropy­lene.

Each of these options has fea­tures, spec­i­fi­ca­tions, and an instal­la­tion pro­ce­dure. How­ev­er, all of them are a mod­ern and new alter­na­tive to out­dat­ed wiring.

Plas­tic is con­sid­ered a com­plete mate­r­i­al for cre­at­ing a water or sew­er net­work. You can buy it in every build­ing super­mar­ket, and due to its light weight, it will not be dif­fi­cult to deliv­er prod­ucts to your home. The advan­tages of plas­tic pipes include:

  • ease;
  • plas­tic;
  • cheap­ness;
  • ease of instal­la­tion;
  • strength.

Met­al-plas­tic is also con­sid­ered an alter­na­tive to met­al. Thanks to its tech­ni­cal char­ac­ter­is­tics, this mate­r­i­al has long earned a pos­i­tive rep­u­ta­tion, and every­one can work with it. As a result, it will be easy to repair a water sup­ply or sew­er­age sys­tem in Khrushchev. The pos­i­tive aspects of met­al-plas­tic are:

  • resis­tance to mechan­i­cal stress;
  • flex­i­bil­i­ty;
  • ease of instal­la­tion;
  • cheap­ness;
  • small dimen­sions.

Polypropy­lene is an inno­v­a­tive mate­r­i­al used for the con­struc­tion of com­mu­ni­ca­tions in the bath­room. Prod­ucts that are made from it are of high qual­i­ty, which makes it pos­si­ble to man­u­fac­ture struc­tures of any com­plex­i­ty on their basis. The pos­i­tive aspects of polypropy­lene are:

  • dura­bil­i­ty;
  • uni­ver­sal­i­ty;
  • the abil­i­ty to bend the prod­uct at an angle;
  • reli­a­bil­i­ty;
  • strength.

These mate­ri­als are suc­cess­ful­ly used to cre­ate pipelines for var­i­ous pur­pos­es. Plas­tic is more often used for the man­u­fac­ture of sew­er net­works, and polypropy­lene and met­al-plas­tic for the for­ma­tion of water pipes.

Plas­tic pipes for sew­er­age

Dismantling of old pipes: riser, drain and fan

Dis­man­tling old pipes is a respon­si­ble task that does not tol­er­ate inat­ten­tion. Neg­li­gence in the oper­a­tion of the method leads to the for­ma­tion of fatal injuries that require large mate­r­i­al costs. The elim­i­na­tion of old pipes is car­ried out accord­ing to a clear scheme:

  1. We turn off the taps, block the valves and turn off the taps, warn the neigh­bors about future work. We coor­di­nate the replace­ment of the ris­er with the rel­e­vant author­i­ties.
  2. We drain the remain­ing water from the water sup­ply net­work and the ris­er.
  3. If pos­si­ble, we remove plumb­ing, turn off elec­tri­cal appli­ances and equip­ment.
  4. We take out from the room every­thing super­flu­ous that can inter­fere with work.
  5. First, we dis­man­tle the fan and drain pipes using an adjustable wrench.
  6. If the con­nec­tions are not unscrewed, we take a hack­saw for met­al or a grinder and cut them off at the very base — near the ceil­ing and floor.
  7. We make the first inci­sion near the ceil­ing, care­ful­ly scrolling the grinder around the pipe.
  8. After mak­ing sure that the upper part has moved away, we move on to the low­er inci­sion.
  9. Sim­i­lar­ly, we cut off the ris­er from below, hold­ing it so that it does not fall.
  10. We take out the dis­man­tled pipe from the room.
  11. Sim­i­lar­ly, we cut and take out the fan pipe.
  12. We pro­ceed to the dis­man­tling of the water sup­ply net­work.
  13. If pos­si­ble, we unwind the con­nec­tions with an adjustable wrench or ass.
  14. Unyield­ing joints are cut off with a grinder so that 10–15 cm of pipes remain near the walls for cut­ting new threads.
  15. We unscrew the fas­ten­ers and remove the pipes from the walls.
  16. We free the room from the dis­man­tled pipes.

Depend­ing on the design fea­tures and the scheme of the exist­ing net­work, the dis­man­tling pro­ce­dure may dif­fer. How­ev­er, in gen­er­al, it is always car­ried out accord­ing to the above plan, since it is he who describes all the stages of the analy­sis of com­mu­ni­ca­tions most ful­ly.

Cut­ting old pipes


Stages of installing a new water supply

Before installing a new water sup­ply net­work, we draw on a schemat­ic dia­gram, dis­play­ing all the details of the updat­ed design. On the plan, we indi­cate the dimen­sions and ratios of parts, the num­ber of joints and turns, the length and diam­e­ter of the pipes. The fin­ished scheme is the key to a suc­cess­ful and eco­nom­i­cal project. Only after a detailed study can you start installing a new net­work. Do-it-your­self instal­la­tion of a new water sup­ply sys­tem includes the fol­low­ing steps:

  1. With the help of a grinder and a stone cir­cle, we cut spe­cial chan­nels in the walls into which a new water sup­ply will be laid. The depth of the open­ings must be at least 15 cm, and the width is 0.5–1 cm more than the diam­e­ter of the pipes. Lay­ing the water sup­ply net­work in the wall will allow you to save free space in the bath­room.
  2. We process the walls of con­crete chan­nels with a chis­el, remov­ing sharp edges and excess parts of the stone that can dam­age the pipes or inter­fere with their instal­la­tion.
  3. We cut a new thread on an old met­al pipe. To do this, we select the appro­pri­ate diam­e­ter of the plate and wind it on the remains of the iron base. To car­ry out this work, you will have to make an effort, but its result will be an excel­lent carv­ing.
  4. We wind the cor­ner adapter onto the new thread and direct it into the pre­vi­ous­ly made recess­es in the wall.
  5. We con­nect an emer­gency shut­down valve to the adapter, and we mount a new pipe to it. As the main option, we will use met­al-plas­tic. There­fore, we con­nect the edge of the pipe direct­ly to the tap and fix it.
  6. We make the appro­pri­ate dis­tri­b­u­tion of cold and hot water, as well as lay­ing the lay­ers for plumb­ing. Before each final ele­ment of the sys­tem, we install taps that will allow you to eas­i­ly turn off the tap or toi­let in the event of a break­down.

    Taps for con­nect­ing plumb­ing
  7. We seal the pipes with plas­ter or imme­di­ate­ly close them with the cho­sen type of fin­ish, leav­ing only taps for taps, a toi­let bowl and a heat­ed tow­el rail out­side.

The result of such actions will be not only a com­plete renew­al of the water sup­ply net­work, but also the lib­er­a­tion of space. In con­di­tions of small areas, this step will make it pos­si­ble to make the room visu­al­ly larg­er and opti­mize it.

Instal­la­tion of water out­lets

Installing a heated towel rail


A heat­ed tow­el rail is an essen­tial attribute of every bath­room, espe­cial­ly in the absence of a bal­cony. Its replace­ment is also an urgent issue, because over time, met­al pipes become over­grown with a lay­er of rust, becom­ing less effec­tive. The replace­ment of the heat­ed tow­el rail is car­ried out in con­junc­tion with the water sup­ply net­works and is thought out in advance. The pro­ce­dure for dis­man­tling and installing the dry­er is car­ried out accord­ing to the fol­low­ing rules:

  1. Instal­la­tion of a heat­ed tow­el rail is car­ried out on pipes of heat­ing or hot water. The sec­ond option is eas­i­er to imple­ment and does not require coor­di­na­tion with util­i­ties.
  2. We install cranes on pre-pre­pared bends that will allow you to turn off the device in case of an emer­gency.
  3. We fix the taps in the branch­es and imme­di­ate­ly trans­fer them to the closed state.
  4. After the tap, we install an adapter of the required diam­e­ter, which will allow you to con­tin­ue the net­work and con­nect the heat­ed tow­el rail to the water sup­ply net­work.
  5. We tight­en the union nuts until they are com­plete­ly fixed and open the taps, start­ing the flow of water into the sys­tem.

To check the func­tion­al­i­ty of the heat­ed tow­el rail, both taps should be left open for a day. If dur­ing this time the sys­tem does not begin to leak, and water oozes from the con­nec­tions, then the device is installed cor­rect­ly and will ful­ly work.

Installing a heat­ed tow­el rail


For dis­man­tling and sub­se­quent instal­la­tion, it is nec­es­sary to have spe­cial tools at hand. Their pres­ence will sig­nif­i­cant­ly reduce the time of work and opti­mize it. To sim­pli­fy the replace­ment, you will need such a tool:

  • pen­cil;
  • roulette;
  • Bul­gar­i­an;
  • set of wrench­es;
  • die;
  • scis­sors;
  • Mas­ter OK;
  • chis­el;
  • screw­driv­er.

If desired, this list can be expand­ed with an addi­tion­al tool such as a drill, crimp­ing pli­ers, etc. Their pres­ence is not nec­es­sary, but still allows you to fix pipes and con­nec­tions more reli­ably.

Installed heat­ed tow­el rail

Recommendations and errors

When remov­ing old pipelines and sew­ers, pipes should not be cut to the very wall. Be sure to leave a gap 10–15 cm long, which is nec­es­sary for future thread­ing. If you cut the pipes at the very base, then for thread­ing you will have to hol­low out part of the wall.

In places of branch­es, taps are nec­es­sar­i­ly installed, which in emer­gency sit­u­a­tions will allow you to turn off a faulty ele­ment of plumb­ing or equip­ment. In the absence of a valve, the sys­tem will have to be shut off and the whole sys­tem will be low­ered, which presents addi­tion­al dif­fi­cul­ties.

Too much ten­sion or, con­verse­ly, loos­en­ing the nuts is a com­mon mis­take that is fraught with seri­ous con­se­quences. Pipes embed­ded in the wall will cer­tain­ly begin to leak, which leads to soak­ing of con­crete and dam­age to dec­o­ra­tive fin­ish­es. There­fore, when tight­en­ing the nuts, spe­cial care must be tak­en and mod­er­ate force must be applied.


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