How to choose an oil heater for your home?

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Heat­ing hous­ing in EU, even in its south­ern regions, is a pre­req­ui­site for the pos­si­bil­i­ty of liv­ing, there­fore, the domes­tic mar­ket for heat­ing appli­ances offers many heaters of var­i­ous designs that dif­fer in both the prin­ci­ple of oper­a­tion and char­ac­ter­is­tics.

A sep­a­rate niche in the group of heat­ing devices, the oper­a­tion of which is based on the prin­ci­ple of con­vec­tion, is occu­pied by oil-filled elec­tric heaters. Despite the fact that the rat­ing of oil heaters is not high com­pared to some oth­er heat­ing devices, these devices, due to a num­ber of advan­tages, remain in demand by the con­sumer.

Let us con­sid­er in more detail what an oil cool­er is, its char­ac­ter­is­tics and oper­at­ing rules, since choos­ing the best heater with today’s vari­ety of man­u­fac­tured units is not easy.

What is an electric oil heater

This heater is used as the main or addi­tion­al means of heat­ing res­i­den­tial, admin­is­tra­tive and indus­tri­al premis­es. Oil heaters are pow­ered by house­hold pow­er, their oper­a­tion is sim­ple and does not require dai­ly care of the devices. The num­ber of heaters required to main­tain a com­fort­able tem­per­a­ture in the room depends on the size of the room.

Design and principle of operation

An oil-based elec­tric heater is a sealed con­tain­er filled with 85–90% of the vol­ume of min­er­al oil to neu­tral­ize the expan­sion of the liq­uid when heat­ed. There is no need to use more expen­sive syn­thet­ic oil with addi­tives, since there are no mov­ing parts in the device, and there­fore no fric­tion fac­tor.

The heater is equipped with a device for sta­ble fix­a­tion at the loca­tion.

A heat­ing ele­ment (tubu­lar elec­tric heater of a closed type) with a cable for con­nect­ing to the mains is embed­ded in the oil tank. Devices are also pro­duced with sev­er­al built-in heaters, and there­fore such a unit con­sumes much more elec­tric­i­ty.

The heat­ing ele­ment, after being con­nect­ed to the net­work, begins to smooth­ly heat up the oil in the tank, which forms con­vec­tive flows inside and gives off heat to the room air through the sur­face of the device case.

The heater has a plat­form with devices that con­trol and mon­i­tor the oper­a­tion of the device.

For the pos­si­bil­i­ty of mechan­i­cal adjust­ment of the pow­er used, the unit has a rheo­stat that will turn off the device when it reach­es the man­u­al­ly set tem­per­a­ture. This sys­tem is not very con­ve­nient, as it is not tied to the room tem­per­a­ture, and the set val­ue requires cor­rec­tion at dif­fer­ent times of the day.

For auto­mat­ic con­trol of the heater, a ther­mo­stat (ther­mo­stat) with a tem­per­a­ture sen­sor is mount­ed on it, which peri­od­i­cal­ly turn the heater on / off to main­tain the pre-set man­u­al­ly mode in the room.

How to choose a heater with a reliable thermostat?

Ther­mostats are mechan­i­cal and elec­tron­ic. The cost of heaters equipped with elec­tron­ic devices is high­er than units with mechan­i­cal ther­mostats, since the func­tion­al­i­ty of the elec­tron­ics is wider, there is the pos­si­bil­i­ty of pro­gram­ming the tem­per­a­ture regime by time of day or even days of the week. But mechan­i­cal automa­tion has its own advan­tage — it is more reli­able, since it almost does not react to heat­ing, and its infre­quent repairs are much cheap­er. There­fore, there is no unequiv­o­cal answer to the ques­tion of which con­trol sys­tem is prefer­able.

Impor­tant! In the event of fail­ure of the rheo­stat or tem­per­a­ture con­troller, all mod­els of oil heaters have an auto­mat­ic over­heat­ing shut­down device that pre­vents the unit from heat­ing to explo­sive tem­per­a­tures. Even if the auto­mat­ic shut­down device fails, over­heat­ing of the oil in the radi­a­tor will trig­ger the safe­ty valve locat­ed at the bot­tom of the radi­a­tor and designed to relieve pres­sure in a safe direc­tion.

Impor­tant! The use of oil in the radi­a­tor makes it pos­si­ble to reduce the sur­face tem­per­a­ture of the heater to safe val­ues ​​of 50–80 degrees with a heat­ing ele­ment poten­tial of 800 °C.

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The first mod­els of oil heaters were pro­duced with a hole that allows you to add oil to the tank. Mod­ern oil-filled heaters are her­met­i­cal­ly sealed.

The heat­ing of the room occurs in the process of con­vec­tion — the cir­cu­la­tion of the air flow, due to the heat­ing of the air in con­tact with the sur­face of the heater and its move­ment upwards to the ceil­ing.

The high­er the ceil­ings in the apart­ment, the more pow­er the oil heater should have.

Varieties of oil-filled heaters

Oil heaters can be clas­si­fied accord­ing to the fol­low­ing char­ac­ter­is­tics:

  • radi­a­tor pro­file;
  • pro­duc­tion mate­r­i­al,
  • pow­er;
  • instal­la­tion loca­tion.

Accord­ing to the pro­file of the radi­a­tor, oil-filled elec­tric heaters are divid­ed into ribbed and flat.

Ribbed heaters out­ward­ly resem­ble tra­di­tion­al cast-iron heat­ing radi­a­tors, as they are assem­bled from sec­tions of the same shape that com­mu­ni­cate with each oth­er.

But sec­tions of oil heaters are not made by cast­ing, but by weld­ing and press­ing blanks from black sheet steel with a thick­ness of 0.8–1 mm, so their tight­ness depends on the accu­ra­cy of the dimen­sions of the com­po­nent parts. In this regard, for the man­u­fac­ture of sec­tion­al blanks, laser cut­ting is used, which is char­ac­ter­ized by high accu­ra­cy and even­ness of the cut edge, as well as the absence of tem­per­a­ture defor­ma­tions of the processed steel sheet.

In the fin­ished sec­tions of the heaters, holes are made for their com­mu­ni­ca­tion with each oth­er, after com­bin­ing which the ele­ments are con­nect­ed to each oth­er by the nip­ple method using press­ing and spot weld­ing.

Ready-made heaters are paint­ed using pow­der tech­nol­o­gy, which includes plac­ing the prod­uct in spe­cial ovens for the poly­mer­iza­tion of paint­work, which has high pro­tec­tive and aes­thet­ic prop­er­ties.

The pres­ence of ribs in the design of oil heaters increas­es not only the strength of the devices, but also the effi­cien­cy of their use — by increas­ing the heat trans­fer area by sev­er­al times. But the same design fea­ture makes ribbed heaters heav­ier and more cum­ber­some, which com­pli­cates their instal­la­tion on ver­ti­cal sur­faces.

Flat oil heaters, by def­i­n­i­tion, dif­fer from ribbed heaters only in the pro­file of the radi­a­tor, which con­sists of two met­al plates weld­ed togeth­er with extrud­ed recess­es, the com­bi­na­tion of which, dur­ing assem­bly, forms cav­i­ties for plac­ing oil and heat­ing ele­ments.

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The effi­cien­cy of their use is low­er, but, accord­ing­ly, they con­sume less elec­tric­i­ty. These devices are lighter and more com­pact than ribbed units, which, in the pres­ence of spe­cial brack­ets, allows these heaters to be installed on walls.

Accord­ing to the mate­r­i­al of the radi­a­tor, elec­tric oil-filled heaters are made of steel, alu­minum, or a com­bi­na­tion of these met­als.

Steel is used for floor-stand­ing flat and ribbed appli­ances, which are heavy and there­fore prone to dam­age in case of tip­ping over.

Flat heat­ing units of low pow­er are made of alu­minum, not sub­ject to high val­ues ​​of inter­nal oil pres­sure.

More pow­er­ful mod­els are pro­duced with cast thick-walled finned radi­a­tors, which have high strength and sev­er­al times the heat trans­fer area. Such devices are often installed in indus­tri­al premis­es that do not have exter­nal ther­mal insu­la­tion of walls.

Radi­a­tors of oil heaters of top mod­els can be made of two lay­ers — from two met­als with very dif­fer­ent char­ac­ter­is­tics. The inner lay­er of the radi­a­tor hous­ing is made of steel to increase strength, and the out­er lay­er (smooth or finned) is made of alu­minum, which has a high ther­mal con­duc­tiv­i­ty coef­fi­cient and pro­vides bet­ter heat exchange with the room air. Such heaters are called bimetal­lic.

Impor­tant! Bimetal­lic radi­a­tors, when heat­ed after switch­ing on and when cooled, pro­duce a crack due to the dif­fer­ence in the coef­fi­cients of ther­mal expan­sion of steel and alu­minum.

Accord­ing to the pow­er con­sump­tion, oil-filled elec­tric heaters are divid­ed into 3 groups:

  • low-pow­er — 0.5–1 kW;
  • medi­um pow­er — 1–2.5 kW;
  • high-pow­er — 2.5–3 kW.

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Medi­um-pow­er units are com­mon in every­day life, since low-pow­er ones are designed for small areas with a low ceil­ing height, and high-pow­er devices are not eco­nom­i­cal — the pow­er / effi­cien­cy ratio is low.

At the place of instal­la­tion, elec­tric oil heaters are divid­ed into floor, wall and uni­ver­sal.

The prin­ci­ple of oper­a­tion of all these vari­eties is the same, the dif­fer­ence is only in the design pos­si­bil­i­ty of instal­la­tion on a hor­i­zon­tal or ver­ti­cal base.

Steel ribbed appli­ances are usu­al­ly made for out­door use, since plac­ing them on a ver­ti­cal sur­face will sig­nif­i­cant­ly reduce the heat trans­fer of the radi­a­tor fins from the side of the wall, and the dimen­sions of the unit placed on the par­ti­tion, togeth­er with the min­i­mum allow­able dis­tance to the build­ing enve­lope, will cre­ate incon­ve­nience for res­i­dents. Floor heaters are avail­able with fixed legs for instal­la­tion in the right place or can be equipped with small wheels for easy move­ment of devices with­in the home. The floor ver­sion can also be heaters with a flat radi­a­tor, as a rule, of low pow­er.

For wall mount­ing, flat oil heaters are pro­duced, com­pact and lighter in weight, one of the walls of which must be equipped with a pro­tec­tive screen to reduce the ther­mal effect on the wall. The price of wall-mount­ed devices is much high­er than floor-stand­ing mod­els due to the pres­ence of a low tem­per­a­ture sys­tem on the body (for fire safe­ty pur­pos­es), increased per­for­mance require­ments and a high­er lev­el of aes­thet­ic per­for­mance.

Uni­ver­sal loca­tion elec­tric oil heaters are devices with a flat radi­a­tor, equipped with legs (wheels) and brack­ets for wall mount­ing. The body of the unit is designed for the instal­la­tion of both sets of com­po­nents, depend­ing on the design loca­tion of the device.

As a rule, such devices do not have a screen pro­tec­tion of one of the sides, and when mount­ing on a wall, it is nec­es­sary to ther­mal­ly insu­late the base oppo­site the unit by lay­ing foil insu­lat­ing mate­r­i­al.

Calculation of the required power of the oil cooler

One kilo­watt of elec­tric­i­ty is con­vert­ed by an oil-filled heater into 850 watts of heat. To cal­cu­late the required pow­er of such a heater when using it as the main means of heat­ing, the con­di­tion is tak­en that for heat­ing 10 sq. m. the area of ​​​​the apart­ment will require 1 kW of elec­tric­i­ty. Approx­i­mate cal­cu­la­tions are sum­ma­rized for clar­i­ty in the table:

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If oil heaters are not the main, but an addi­tion­al means of heat­ing, then the amount of required pow­er is halved. But these val­ues ​​are con­di­tion­al, since they are aver­aged and can fluc­tu­ate in both direc­tions depend­ing on the fol­low­ing fac­tors:

  • ceil­ing height — the high­er the room, the more pow­er­ful the heater should be;
  • the tem­per­a­ture of the enclos­ing struc­tures — the pres­ence of exter­nal walls in the room, their mate­r­i­al of man­u­fac­ture and the degree of insu­la­tion;
  • heater instal­la­tion loca­tion — instal­la­tion under the win­dowsill or in a niche will reduce the heat­ing effi­cien­cy by 5–7%;
  • area and method of glaz­ing — large win­dow open­ings increase heat loss, but mod­ern dou­ble-glazed win­dows in win­dow blocks retain heat in the premis­es;
  • the ori­en­ta­tion of the room on the sides of the hori­zon — the win­dows to the south con­tribute to the heat­ing of the room by the sun’s rays in win­ter.

Tak­ing into account the above fac­tors, the need for 1 kW of unit pow­er for heat­ing 10 sq. m. area can increase by one and a half to two times, and the con­sump­tion of elec­tric­i­ty by an oil heater, even in a month, will result in a decent amount.

Impor­tant! The effi­cien­cy of using mul­ti-sec­tion oil-filled heaters with more than ten sec­tions decreas­es, so the use of two or three heaters with a total pow­er of 3 kW is prefer­able to using one high-pow­er unit with the same pow­er con­sump­tion.


Advantages and disadvantages of oil electric heaters

In order to objec­tive­ly com­pare oil-filled elec­tri­cal heat­ing appli­ances with oth­er means of heat­ing, we list their pros and cons.

Advan­tages:

  • high degree of safe­ty — sev­er­al stages of pro­tec­tion against over­heat­ing, auto­mat­ic shut­down in case of tip­ping over, the pres­ence of a safe­ty valve on the bot­tom of the radi­a­tor, the absence of harm­ful emis­sions;
  • noise­less­ness — with the excep­tion of the crack­ling of bimetal­lic radi­a­tors dur­ing pri­ma­ry heat­ing and cool­ing;
  • ease of instal­la­tion, oper­a­tion and dai­ly main­te­nance;
  • com­pact­ness and mobil­i­ty — the abil­i­ty to trans­fer or rein­stall;
  • dura­bil­i­ty — with ele­men­tary obser­vance of the oper­at­ing instruc­tions, heaters serve 15–20 years;
  • the pos­si­bil­i­ty of repair — the replace­ment of failed com­po­nents does not require high­ly qual­i­fied spe­cial­ist;
  • aes­thet­ics — a vari­ety of design allows you to choose a mod­el for any inte­ri­or space;
  • afford­able price range — only top mod­els of wall-mount­ed oil elec­tric heaters are expen­sive.

There are also dis­ad­van­tages, but they are not many:

  • rel­a­tive­ly high elec­tric­i­ty con­sump­tion;
  • if the ther­mo­stat fails, there is a risk of burns on con­tact with the sur­face of the radi­a­tor, but this can be avoid­ed by using a pro­tec­tive mesh cov­er.

An impres­sive list of advan­tages deter­mines the pop­u­lar­i­ty of using oil heaters (espe­cial­ly as addi­tion­al means of heat­ing), despite how much elec­tric­i­ty this type of heater con­sumes.

Operating rules

Before con­nect­ing to the net­work, the mobile heater must be installed in a ver­ti­cal posi­tion, and the sta­tion­ary heater must be mount­ed at the place of oper­a­tion.

If the portable device was trans­port­ed or stored hor­i­zon­tal­ly, after being installed in the design posi­tion, it is allowed to stand for 5 min­utes so that the oil flows from the walls into the tank.

The brack­ets of wall-mount­ed units must be secure­ly fas­tened to the base in com­pli­ance with the fol­low­ing stan­dards:

  • the dis­tance from the floor to the bot­tom pan­el of the heater should not be less than 7 cm, and a clear­ance of at least 8 cm should be main­tained from the win­dow sill to the upper plane of the unit;
  • the gap between the heater and the wall must be at least 3 cm, even if the ther­mal pro­tec­tion is made of a foil insu­la­tor.

Impor­tant! An elec­tric oil-filled heater, like any elec­tri­cal appli­ance, must be ground­ed — its pow­er cord must be with a ground­ing con­tact.

Dry­ing things using an oil cool­er is only allowed if it has a spe­cial remov­able device.

The unit should not be locat­ed close to fur­ni­ture, sock­ets or switch­es in order to avoid their dam­age, melt­ing.

Oper­a­tion of the device with dam­age to the insu­la­tion on the pow­er cord is not allowed.

When you turn on the oil heater for the first time after pur­chase, you need to warm it up in a ven­ti­lat­ed room at max­i­mum mode to elim­i­nate the smell from burn­ing out for­eign lay­ers.

Impor­tant! Gur­gling when first turned on is not a sign of a mal­func­tion — dis­solved air is released from the oil when heat­ed.

The basic rules for using the oil heater are set out in the oper­at­ing instruc­tions and are manda­to­ry.

Review of the best models of oil electric heaters

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This type of heat­ing devices has been pro­duced for sev­er­al decades, so the con­sumers of these prod­ucts have a sta­ble objec­tive opin­ion on most man­u­fac­tur­ers. Answer­ing the ques­tion which oil heater is bet­ter, you can com­pile the fol­low­ing list of the most pop­u­lar man­u­fac­tur­ers of these units:

  • Tim­berk;
  • Delonghi;
  • Zanus­si
  • Elec­trolux;
  • Hyundai;
  • Gen­er­al Cli­mate.

If we group oil heaters by loca­tion in the price range, then in each seg­ment we can dis­tin­guish sev­er­al prod­ucts that have proven them­selves well in Euro­pean con­di­tions. Con­sid­er sev­er­al pop­u­lar mod­els, arrang­ing them in ascend­ing order of cost.

Tim­berk TOR 21.1507 BC/BCL

Not expen­sive, but good qual­i­ty Chi­nese elec­tric oil heater with elec­tric­i­ty con­sump­tion of only 1.5 kW per hour. It is effec­tive even as the main means of heat­ing for rooms up to 15 sq. m., it quick­ly reach­es the set pow­er. It is made of frost-resis­tant mate­ri­als and equipped with a mechan­i­cal tem­per­a­ture con­troller, which is con­trolled by an over­heat­ing pro­tec­tion device.

Aes­thet­ic design with­out frills, but wear-resis­tant and made at a high lev­el. The heat­ing device is rec­om­mend­ed for use both in apart­ments and cot­tages, as it is not demand­ing for main­te­nance. The price fluc­tu­ates around 25$.

Unit Uor-940

This floor stand­ing oil heater can be pur­chased for about the same amount, but you get a gain in pow­er (up to 2 kW) and the num­ber of sec­tions (9). Unit Uor-940 is a pop­u­lar clas­sic heater with a mechan­i­cal tem­per­a­ture con­troller and all the nec­es­sary pro­tec­tion stages, equipped with a min­i­mum of options, but quite func­tion­al.

Roy­al Cli­ma ROR- C7-1500M

This 7‑section floor stand­ing unit made in Italy (sup­plied to Europe assem­bled in Chi­na) is equipped with three pow­er lev­els (600–900-1500 W), a mechan­i­cal tem­per­a­ture con­troller (ther­mo­stat) and has a fire­place heat­ing effect. With a small weight (7.9 kg), the heater is effec­tive in heat­ing rooms up to 15 sq. m., durable and safe in oper­a­tion.

Gen­er­al Cli­mate NY23LA

A good Euro­pean-British floor stand­ing oil heater with a robust body of 11 sec­tions with a total max­i­mum pow­er of 2.3 kW, equipped with two heat­ing ele­ments and three oper­at­ing modes (2300–1300-1000 W). The unit is equipped with frost pro­tec­tion, there­fore it is also designed for oper­a­tion in rooms with tem­per­a­tures below zero. It is effec­tive for heat­ing rooms up to 20 sq. m., sold at a price of 3500–38$.

ZANUSSI Nuo­vo ZOH/NV-11G

11-sec­tion floor oil heater man­u­fac­tured in Swe­den (Chi­na) with a max­i­mum pow­er of 2.2 kW (3 lev­els) — with a guar­an­teed pos­si­bil­i­ty of heat­ing rooms up to 28 sq. m. Aes­thet­ics of exe­cu­tion — for an ama­teur, but the effi­cien­cy of oper­a­tion and the degree of secu­ri­ty are high, which does not reduce pop­u­lar­i­ty with the con­sumer. Heaters are in the price range from 3700 to 43$.

Independent production of a heating oil-filled radiator

In rooms where the require­ments for the aes­thet­ics of heat­ing equip­ment are not high (garage, work­shop), you can save on heat­ing by mak­ing your own elec­tric heater filled with used oil. Let’s con­sid­er this pos­si­bil­i­ty in more detail.

Homemade oil heater from steel pipes

Like an indus­tri­al unit, such a heater should include:

  • radi­a­tor (reg­is­ter) with sup­port struc­ture;
  • heat­ing ele­ment with pow­er cable;
  • oil;
  • con­trol sys­tem.

Production of a radiator and insertion of heating elements

The dimen­sions of this inte­gral ele­ment of the heater are select­ed based on the dimen­sions of the room. As a rule, the reg­is­ter is made of two or three pieces of steel pipes, which will be locat­ed hor­i­zon­tal­ly, com­mu­ni­cat­ing with each oth­er by tying them with pipes of a small­er diam­e­ter.

Man­u­fac­tur­ing option.

From a seam­less steel pipe with a diam­e­ter of 100 mm, 3 sec­tions 2–2.5 m long are cut, the sec­tions of which are trimmed. On a lathe, 6 inter­nal plugs are machined from sheet steel 4–6 mm thick. Four of them are insert­ed from both ends into 2 ele­ments of the weav­ing pipe and care­ful­ly scald­ed around the perime­ter, that is, the ele­ments are muf­fled.

Giv­en the sig­nif­i­cant dimen­sions of the heater design, for its effi­cient oper­a­tion it is more expe­di­ent to use two heat­ing ele­ments of medi­um pow­er (1.5 — 3.5 kW), which should be installed at the ends of the third frag­ment of the weav­ing pipe. You can lim­it your­self to one, but more pow­er­ful heater (3–5 kW), but then it would be advis­able to embed a pump into the radi­a­tor — for bet­ter oil cir­cu­la­tion, or mount an addi­tion­al pip­ing of the sec­tions with pipes of a small­er diam­e­ter.

Impor­tant! For steel pipes, heat­ing ele­ments should be cho­sen from cop­per or stain­less steel, while the pres­ence or absence of a mag­ne­sium anode in them does not mat­ter — it is not need­ed in an oily envi­ron­ment.

In the case of using two heat­ing ele­ments, two cou­plings 5–7 cm long with an inter­nal thread cor­re­spond­ing to the exter­nal thread of the heaters are also machined from steel on a lathe. The cou­plings are weld­ed in the cen­ters into the plugs, which are then installed from the ends into the third ele­ment of the weav­ing pipe and care­ful­ly scald­ed.

Then, depend­ing on the num­ber of heat­ing ele­ments in the struc­ture, the sec­tions of the reg­is­ter are tied with steel pipes with a diam­e­ter of 40–50 mm with or with­out mount­ing ties and the heater legs are installed. A branch pipe with a plug is weld­ed into the upper ele­ment of the reg­is­ter, into which a safe­ty valve is installed — for the pos­si­bil­i­ty of emer­gency relief of excess pres­sure.

Heat­ing ele­ments are screwed into the cou­plings from the ends of the low­er sec­tion of the reg­is­ter using seal­ing gas­kets made of paronite or oil-resis­tant rub­ber. Pow­er cables are con­nect­ed to the heaters, which must nec­es­sar­i­ly have ground­ing con­duc­tors.

Accord­ing to the for­mu­la for deter­min­ing the vol­ume of the cylin­der (the prod­uct of the base area by the height), the capac­i­ty of each ele­ment of the man­u­fac­tured radi­a­tor is cal­cu­lat­ed, after which the obtained val­ues ​​are summed up — the need for used oil will be 90% of the sum of the vol­umes.

Characteristics of oil for a homemade heater

The ide­al option for fill­ing an arti­sanal oil heater is new trans­former oil. But, based on the fact that the goal of self-man­u­fac­tur­ing such a unit is sav­ings, using expen­sive full-fledged oil in it will be con­trary to the idea. There­fore, we will con­sid­er the options for using the used mate­r­i­al, that is, how to choose the right min­ing.


It is pos­si­ble to buy used trans­former oil for a pit­tance, which is drained at elec­tri­cal sub­sta­tions when it is replaced in trans­form­ers with a new one. After the new place­hold­er, this is the sec­ond high­est rat­ed option.

Used auto­mo­tive engine oil is also suit­able for fill­ing, but the fol­low­ing nuances should be tak­en into account:

  • any organ­ic motor or gear oil is suit­able for an oil heater, prefer­ably a vis­cous one;
  • syn­thet­ic oil is liq­uid, and its con­vec­tive move­ment in the radi­a­tor will be accom­pa­nied by noise;
  • it is not rec­om­mend­ed to mix syn­thet­ic oil with organ­ic oil, since the con­sis­ten­cy of the mix­ture dur­ing heat­ing can become unpre­dictably het­ero­ge­neous, the move­ment of con­vec­tive flows in the radi­a­tor will slow down, and the heater sur­face will be heat­ed uneven­ly dur­ing oper­a­tion.

The select­ed oil is poured into the radi­a­tor in an amount of 85–90% of its vol­ume through the filler neck in the upper sec­tion, after which a plug with a safe­ty valve is screwed onto the pipe.

Security device

If the oil is filled into the radi­a­tor from steel pipes cor­rect­ly — in the right amount, then the pres­ence of a safe­ty valve is more of an addi­tion­al safe­ty mea­sure than a neces­si­ty, since steel can with­stand high ten­sile loads.
As for the tem­per­a­ture of the heater, first it is mea­sured at var­i­ous points of the radi­a­tor and the effi­cien­cy of the heater is eval­u­at­ed. If the tem­per­a­ture is low, you need to replace the heat­ing ele­ments with more pow­er­ful ones. If the radi­a­tor heats up exces­sive­ly, then there are two ways out of the sit­u­a­tion:

  • install heaters of low­er pow­er;
  • add tem­per­a­ture con­trollers to the heat­ing ele­ment cir­cuit (accord­ing to the num­ber of heaters), plac­ing them on the radi­a­tor in close prox­im­i­ty.

Tem­per­a­ture con­trollers must be select­ed with a suit­able tem­per­a­ture range. A device from a house­hold iron, for exam­ple, is not very suit­able for this, since the low­er thresh­old for its tem­per­a­ture con­trol is still too high for an oil cool­er.

Impor­tant! The heat­ing unit must be ground­ed. In the absence of pro­fes­sion­al knowl­edge and skills, it is bet­ter to entrust the design and instal­la­tion of a home­made oil cool­er secu­ri­ty sys­tem to a spe­cial­ist who will min­i­mize the risk of using a home­made elec­tric heater.

Oil heater from a cast-iron heating radiator

If there is an old cast-iron bat­tery from a water or steam heat­ing sys­tem, then a home-made elec­tric heater using waste oil can be made from it with­out buy­ing steel pipes.

How­ev­er, it should be not­ed that the amount of work in this case, at least, will not decrease, and cer­tain pro­fes­sion­al skills will be need­ed.

First of all, the radi­a­tor needs to be inspect­ed for cracks and chips. Then it must be revised — dis­as­sem­bled into sep­a­rate sec­tions, cleaned of scale from their insides and thread­ed con­nec­tions, and then reassem­bled using sealants that seal the threads. This is done because oil, espe­cial­ly hot oil, has a much high­er per­me­abil­i­ty than water.

To per­form a bat­tery revi­sion, you will need a spe­cial key, which turns out the con­nect­ing nip­ples of the sec­tions, and, if this oper­a­tion is per­formed for the first time, help or at least advice from a heat engi­neer.

The heat­ing ele­ment is insert­ed into the cast-iron radi­a­tor in the same way as in the steel pipe radi­a­tor — from below, instead of the stan­dard plug.

A safe­ty valve is installed in the upper diag­o­nal futor­ka of a cast-iron radi­a­tor — a valve with the pos­si­bil­i­ty of emer­gency pres­sure relief.

Impor­tant! Cast iron works worse in ten­sion, so high­er require­ments are placed on the sys­tem for pro­tect­ing a cast-iron radi­a­tor from excess pres­sure than on a heater made of steel pipes.

Based on the fore­go­ing, it is bet­ter to entrust the man­u­fac­ture of an oil heater from a cast-iron radi­a­tor of a cen­tral heat­ing sys­tem, espe­cial­ly a secu­ri­ty sys­tem, to a spe­cial­ist who has prac­ti­cal skills in per­form­ing this type of work.

Conclusion

Mod­ern oil-based elec­tric heaters for the home are reli­able, safe and afford­able devices. The range of units offered by man­u­fac­tur­ers is able to sat­is­fy any need. It is at least unrea­son­able to use self-made heaters, and even more so units man­u­fac­tured by unknown crafts­men — the amount saved will be unex­pect­ed­ly mod­est, and pos­si­ble dam­age in case of fire or injury when using such a device is not pre­dictable. In addi­tion, the oper­a­tion of home-made elec­tric heaters is pro­hib­it­ed by the ener­gy author­i­ties and the fire ser­vice.

The main essence of the article

  1. Elec­tric oil-filled heater — a device for heat­ing res­i­den­tial, admin­is­tra­tive and indus­tri­al premis­es. The oil unit has been pro­duced for sev­er­al decades, so its design today is quite per­fect and safe, which deter­mines the wide pop­u­lar­i­ty of this device in every­day life.
  2. The demand for an oil elec­tric heater is due to a num­ber of advan­tages with the only draw­back — increased pow­er con­sump­tion.

By choos­ing an oil-filled heater, you can be sure of the con­ve­nience and ease of oper­a­tion, as well as the reli­a­bil­i­ty of sev­er­al lev­els of secu­ri­ty.

  1. The device of an oil heater is an elec­tric heat­ing ele­ment placed in a her­met­ic case filled with min­er­al oil. But there are sev­er­al vari­eties of these heaters, which dif­fer not only in pow­er and design, but also in the design instal­la­tion site — floor, wall and uni­ver­sal units.
  2. When choos­ing an oil heater, you need to focus on the degree of need for heat­ing, so it is impor­tant to be able to cal­cu­late the required pow­er of the heater, to know the fac­tors that affect the effi­cien­cy of oper­a­tion of this device. The best oil heater is the right unit for spe­cif­ic con­di­tions.
  3. In addi­tion to tech­ni­cal char­ac­ter­is­tics, mod­els of oil-filled heaters have an indi­vid­ual rat­ing, deter­mined by con­sumer reviews and the com­pli­ance of the price of the heater with its qual­i­ty. When choos­ing a heater, you need to know which com­pa­ny’s prod­ucts have proven them­selves well in the Euro­pean mar­ket, and the rat­ing of man­u­fac­tur­ing com­pa­nies.
  4. With the nec­es­sary knowl­edge and pro­fes­sion­al skills, you can make an oil elec­tric heater your­self. There are not many ways to man­u­fac­ture these devices, but the tech­nolo­gies con­tain a num­ber of points direct­ly relat­ed to the safe oper­a­tion of such heaters — the mate­r­i­al for the man­u­fac­ture of radi­a­tors, meth­ods for ensur­ing their tight­ness, and require­ments for used oil.
  5. The safe­ty of use of house­hold elec­tri­cal equip­ment is the most impor­tant fac­tor in eval­u­at­ing the device. There­fore, when mak­ing hand­i­craft heaters using used oil, it is nec­es­sary to objec­tive­ly assess your capa­bil­i­ties to ensure the safe oper­a­tion of the man­u­fac­tured heater. If you have doubts about your abil­i­ties, it is bet­ter to aban­don these plans and pur­chase a reli­able and safe indus­tri­al pro­duc­tion unit.

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