How to connect the boiler to the water supply and electricity?


Installation of a boiler for heating water

For safe self-instal­la­tion and con­nec­tion of the boil­er, you need to use all the nec­es­sary pro­tec­tive and reg­u­lat­ing equip­ment, choose the right method of tap­ping into the exist­ing water sup­ply sys­tem.

Con­nect­ing a stor­age water heater on your own is quite with­in the pow­er of any more or less tech­ni­cal­ly edu­cat­ed per­son.

It is enough just to adhere to the gen­er­al prin­ci­ples of con­nec­tion and tech­no­log­i­cal nuances asso­ci­at­ed with the type of cold water main pipeline and the fea­tures of the inter­nal elec­tri­cal net­work.

Oth­er­wise, the fail­ure of quite expen­sive water heat­ing equip­ment, the for­ma­tion of water leaks, or an elec­tric shock to a per­son may well occur.

Choose an installation location

Correct connection of the floor water heaterIn most cas­es, the own­ers try to place the stor­age water heater direct­ly in the bath­room or toi­let room under the ceil­ing with a wall mount.

This is quite jus­ti­fied — in this way space is saved in small bath­rooms, since a boil­er sus­pend­ed from the ceil­ing usu­al­ly does not inter­fere with any­thing or any­one.

But such place­ment of plumb­ing equip­ment is not with­out some dis­ad­van­tages:

  • First­ly, in case of shut­down of cold water for inex­pe­ri­enced users (most­ly house­wives) there is a desire to use the reserves of the valu­able liq­uid con­tained in the stor­age tank. In this case, they often for­get to turn off the pow­er sup­ply. BUT most of the most inex­pen­sive water heaters are not equipped with pro­tec­tion against switch­ing on with­out water (or the lat­ter may sim­ply fail and not work), which will lead to at least a break­down of the tubu­lar elec­tric heater.
  • In this respect more prof­itable floor instal­la­tion of water heat­ing stor­age equip­ment — as, for exam­ple, it is prac­ticed in kitchens, where boil­ers are most­ly mount­ed under the sink. And accord­ing to the laws of com­mu­ni­cat­ing ves­sels and grav­i­ty, water in the absence of pres­sure in the sys­tem will not be able to pour out through a tap locat­ed above the lev­el of the tank.
  • Sec­ond­ly, for wall mount­ing such heavy equip­ment (the mass of the boil­er is on aver­age equal to the mass of water + 20–40%) secure fas­ten­ing required.

Not in every wall mate­r­i­al it is pos­si­ble to orga­nize high-qual­i­ty fas­ten­ing. For exam­ple, the now so pop­u­lar dry­wall walls are not even con­sid­ered. In order to secure­ly fix the boil­er in them (and even then, not the most volu­mi­nous), it is nec­es­sary to pro­vide strong met­al pro­files at the stage of erect­ing plas­ter­board par­ti­tions — mort­gages for future fas­ten­ers.

  • Fas­ten­ing in con­crete or brick walls by means of anchor met­al dow­els will turn out to be of suf­fi­cient qual­i­ty. Plas­tic dow­els are strong­ly not rec­om­mend­ed.because after a few years they sig­nif­i­cant­ly decrease in vol­ume, dry out, which can lead to the fall of expen­sive plumb­ing equip­ment.

Plumbing connection diagram

The most reli­able, time-test­ed scheme for con­nect­ing a stor­age-type elec­tric water heater to a water sup­ply net­work is indi­cat­ed in the fol­low­ing fig­ure:

Wiring diagram

When con­nect­ing water-heat­ing elec­tri­cal equip­ment to the water sup­ply net­work, it is impor­tant to observe the fol­low­ing prin­ci­ples:

  • The sup­ply of cold / hot water to the apart­ment / house must be able to be blocked by valves;
  • The same stop­cocks must be on the branch­es lead­ing direct­ly to the boil­er;
  • If it is pos­si­ble for low-qual­i­ty water to enter the sys­tem at the inlet after the shut-off valve, it is nec­es­sary to install a water fil­ter;
  • After the shut-off valve at the boil­er inlet, it is nec­es­sary to install a safe­ty group, con­sist­ing of ele­ments such as a safe­ty valve that pro­tects the pipelines and the heater tank from over­pres­sure. When this indi­ca­tor ris­es to the max­i­mum allow­able val­ue, excess flu­id is dis­charged into the sew­er sys­tem through a thin drainage tube. Anoth­er manda­to­ry ele­ment of the water heater con­nec­tion sys­tem is non-return valve that pre­vents water from flow­ing out of the tank when it is above the con­nec­tion point and there is no pres­sure in the cold water sup­ply sys­tem. This valve will pro­tect the heaters of the boil­er from dry­ing out, there­fore, it will pre­vent their burnout;Elements and details for connection
  • Anoth­er ele­ment that adds con­ve­nience to the main­te­nance of the unit is drain valvelocat­ed direct­ly in front of the entrance to the water heater and allow­ing you to quick­ly emp­ty the tank for main­te­nance or repair of the plumb­ing device.
  • Also, to con­nect the elec­tric water heater, you will need var­i­ous fit­tings — T‑bends (the so-called “tees”) and con­nect­ing pipes, flex­i­ble or rigid.

    Rigid tees are con­sid­ered more reli­able, since flex­i­ble con­nec­tions, espe­cial­ly with pro­longed con­tact with hot water, can fail pre­ma­ture­ly with all the ensu­ing (in the lit­er­al sense of the word) con­se­quences. And the type of fit­tings used to con­nect the stor­age heater to the water sup­ply sys­tem is deter­mined by the type of pipes.

Do-it-yourself boiler connection to various types of plumbing systems

Steel pipes

How to connect a water heater?In the case of a clas­sic steel water pipe, a mod­ern con­nec­tion method can be used, which excludes such com­plex process­es as weld­ing, cut­ting a water pipe, fol­lowed by thread­ing to con­nect a tee.

For these pur­pos­es, the eas­i­est way is to use a “vam­pire” tee, which is a mod­i­fi­ca­tion of a met­al clamp, one of the parts of which has a pipe with a fin­ished thread.

It is installed as fol­lows:

  • the instal­la­tion site is pre-cleaned from dirt and old paint;
  • the clamp is installed using a rub­ber gas­ket and is secure­ly fixed with four bolts;
  • the water sup­ply valve is closed, if nec­es­sary, the pres­sure in the sys­tem is relieved by open­ing any mix­er;
  • using a drill, a hole is care­ful­ly drilled in the pipe through a thread­ed pipe;
  • the ball valve is screwed on, after which you can pro­ceed to the sub­se­quent oper­a­tions — the instal­la­tion of con­nect­ing pipes and safe­ty ele­ments.

To car­ry out a tie-in into a steel water pipe, the fol­low­ing equip­ment and mate­ri­als will be required:

  • Tee-“vampire” — 2 pieces;
  • Drill with a drill for met­al with a diam­e­ter of 10–12 mil­lime­ters;
  • Set of wrench­es or pli­ers and an adjustable wrench;
  • Rub­ber gas­ketFUM — tape.

Video on how not to install small-vol­ume water heaters:

Metal-plastic pipes

Tap­ping into a met­al-plas­tic pipeline is even eas­i­er, since it is made using stan­dard crimp type fit­tings.

For this you need:

  • Mark the tie-in points of the T‑bends on the hot and cold branch­es of the water sup­ply.
  • After shut­ting off the inlet valves and depres­sur­iz­ing the sys­tem, care­ful­ly cut out the marked areas using a hack­saw or a grinder.
  • Clean up joints.
  • Install the tees, care­ful­ly crimp them with a spe­cial crimp­ing press.

To per­form an oper­a­tion for tie-in into an exist­ing met­al-plas­tic pipeline, you will need:

  • Two T‑bends for met­al-plas­tic;
  • Cut­ting tool (hack­saw or grinder);
  • Clean­ing tool (round file or mount­ing knife);
  • Crimp­ing press for met­al-plas­tic pipes.
  • Polypropy­lene pipelines are con­nect­ed by sol­der­ing. There­fore, to pro­duce a tie-in to the water sup­ply from this mate­r­i­al, you will need:
  • Sol­der­ing iron for polypropy­lene pipes;
  • Pipe cut­ter;
  • Two tees for propy­lene pipes.

Detailed video instruc­tion on how to prop­er­ly con­nect the boil­er to the water sup­ply:

Polypropylene pipes

The oper­a­tion of insert­ing into a polypropy­lene water sup­ply sys­tem itself is as fol­lows:

  • We shut off the water at the entrance to the sys­tem.
  • Mark the sec­tions of the cut accord­ing to the size of the tees, care­ful­ly cut them out with a pipe cut­ter.
  • Clean the joints, insert the T‑bends, fix them by heat­ing with a crimp sol­der­ing iron.
  • Install valves or exten­sion polypropy­lene tubes.

To make a thread­ed con­nec­tion with shut-off / safe­ty valves, it is nec­es­sary to sol­der spe­cial MPH cou­plings at the ends of the tubes.

Polyethylene pipes

Con­nec­tion to a water sup­ply sys­tem made of poly­eth­yl­ene pipes is pos­si­ble in three ways:

  • sol­der­ing method. In this case, the same tools are used as when tap­ping into polypropy­lene pipelines, only fit­tings are used from HDPE.
  • Using com­pres­sion type teesthat is, equipped with con­i­cal wash­ers that tight­en the con­nec­tion by turn­ing the nut — col­let.
  • Through the use of the “vam­pire” teesim­i­lar to that described in the “Steel pipes” sec­tion, only made of high-strength polypropy­lene.

How to connect the boiler to the mains?

An impor­tant fac­tor that direct­ly affects the unin­ter­rupt­ed and safe oper­a­tion of the boil­er, the con­ve­nience of its oper­a­tion, is its cor­rect con­nec­tion to the mains.

To ensure the above, the fol­low­ing con­di­tions must be met:

  • The con­nec­tion should be made through a sep­a­rate cir­cuit break­er of the cor­re­spond­ing rat­ing. This auto switch can be locat­ed both in a com­mon shield and in a sep­a­rate one locat­ed in the imme­di­ate vicin­i­ty of the water heater.
  • Also, accord­ing to mod­ern stan­dards of PUE and SNiPs, it is nec­es­sary to con­nect any pow­er elec­tri­cal appli­ances, which include a water heater, through a dif­fer­en­tial relay (in oth­er words, a resid­ual cur­rent device). Typ­i­cal­ly, an RCD is installed on the entire pow­er wiring of an apart­ment or floor of a pri­vate house.
  • To con­nect the stor­age water heater to elec­tric­i­ty, you must use a dou­ble-insu­lat­ed cable of the appro­pri­ate sec­tion.

Electrical connection diagram

Thus, self-instal­la­tion, con­nec­tion of water-heat­ing plumb­ing equip­ment is with­in the pow­er of almost every­one. If you are not con­fi­dent in your strengths, abil­i­ties, or you do not have enough free time, you can turn to the ser­vices of pro­fes­sion­al plumbers.

Connection cost

Stan­dard instal­la­tion, if you have all the nec­es­sary con­sum­ables and fit­tings pur­chased in advance, depend­ing on the vol­ume of the boil­er, will cost 2000–30 dol­lars.

And if there are some dif­fi­cul­ties that pre­vent the quick instal­la­tion / con­nec­tion of the heater (for exam­ple, a sig­nif­i­cant dis­tance from the point of inser­tion into the water sup­ply sys­tem or the point of con­nec­tion to the elec­tri­cal net­work), then the final amount is nego­ti­at­ed sep­a­rate­ly.

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