We make water heating in the garage with our own hands

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The cli­mat­ic con­di­tions in most Euro­pean regions are such that in win­ter the oper­a­tion of a garage or oth­er eco­nom­ic facil­i­ty is impos­si­ble. How­ev­er, for many men, the garage is not just a place to store a car, but a full-fledged work­shop. Water heat­ing in the garage is one of the best ways to pro­tect your­self from frost, to cre­ate com­fort­able micro­cli­mat­ic con­di­tions in the room, regard­less of what tem­per­a­ture is cur­rent­ly fixed out­side.

General requirements

For a garage, you need to con­sid­er sev­er­al impor­tant points:

  • High qual­i­ty ther­mal insu­la­tion. In the event that the walls of the struc­ture are too cold, then even the most effi­cient heat­ing scheme will be use­less, because the heat­ed air sim­ply can­not be kept inside the room.
  • Tight­ness. It is impor­tant to achieve a com­plete absence of drafts. Too intense air cir­cu­la­tion, air exchange with the exter­nal envi­ron­ment — all this will lead to the fact that the room will cool too quick­ly, fuel costs will increase, and over­all effi­cien­cy will fall.
  • The object must stand on a sol­id foun­da­tion or at least a floor screed. Impres­sive vol­umes of cold rise from the ground, while cement will reduce this neg­a­tive effect.

These points, ide­al­ly, should be tak­en into account even when build­ing a garage. If it comes to an already fin­ished design, you need to make every effort to improve it.

The heat­ing cir­cuit must meet the fol­low­ing require­ments:

  • Safe­ty. The absence of an open flame, the exclu­sion of the pos­si­bil­i­ty of an explo­sion and sat­u­ra­tion of the air with car­bon monox­ide — all this is among the manda­to­ry require­ments.
  • Automa­tion. The scheme should include auto­mat­ic main­te­nance of oper­at­ing para­me­ters in the norm, this con­tributes to both safe­ty and oper­a­tional con­ve­nience.
  • Inde­pen­dence from exter­nal fac­tors. This applies to sys­tems that use elec­tric­i­ty. Mains volt­age fluc­tu­a­tions must not lead to equip­ment fail­ure.
  • Prof­itabil­i­ty. Even the most reli­able sys­tem can hard­ly be called suc­cess­ful and effi­cient if its oper­a­tion is asso­ci­at­ed with huge fuel costs. Please note that in the garage it is not nec­es­sary to warm up the air to the lev­els rel­e­vant for res­i­den­tial premis­es. A suf­fi­cient val­ue is about 12 degrees.

Main arti­cle: do-it-your­self air heat­ing in the garage.

If there is a cottage nearby…

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Own­ers of coun­try hous­es often erect an out­build­ing next to the main res­i­den­tial struc­ture. In such a sit­u­a­tion, an effi­cient liq­uid heat­ing scheme in the garage may involve con­nect­ing to an exist­ing main boil­er.

How­ev­er, it will be effec­tive only if the boil­er room is locat­ed close enough. If you have to make a large branch from the main line, the heat loss will be too large, and the desired effi­cien­cy will not be achieved.

If for some rea­son it is not pos­si­ble to con­nect to the main boil­er, you will have to mount a sep­a­rate device. In a large garage, you can allo­cate space in the cor­ner for this; it is bet­ter to make an exten­sion to a small struc­ture.

Choosing a boiler

Before you make an effec­tive sys­tem, you must cor­rect­ly select the appro­pri­ate unit. The ide­al option is gas equip­ment, but its instal­la­tion is far from always pos­si­ble. The main prob­lem is the need to obtain a lot of cer­tifi­cates and per­mits. Accord­ing to the reg­u­la­tions, the garage belongs to the cat­e­go­ry of tech­ni­cal premis­es used for the stor­age of flam­ma­ble sub­stances. Thus, as an alter­na­tive, we can con­sid­er sol­id fuel equip­ment (fire­wood, spe­cial­ized wood bri­quettes, coal):

  • Prof­itabil­i­ty. This prop­er­ty is explained by the low cost of the equip­ment itself (this applies even to mod­els of sig­nif­i­cant pow­er), and the low price of fuel, which is espe­cial­ly true for rur­al areas, where fire­wood costs mere pen­nies.
  • Installing the equip­ment is extreme­ly sim­ple, for this you do not need to call pro­fes­sion­als.
  • Decent effi­cien­cy.

Water effi­cient heat­ing from a pot­bel­ly stove in the garage is rel­e­vant for rooms up to 30 square meters, since stoves are char­ac­ter­ized by a pow­er of just about 3 kW. For out­build­ings of a large area of ​​​​sev­er­al floors, full-fledged large-sized boil­ers are bet­ter suit­ed. Of the minus­es of sol­id fuel devices, only not very con­ve­nient oper­a­tion can be dis­tin­guished, you have to con­stant­ly add new por­tions of fuel.

It will also be pos­si­ble to deal with the heat­ing of a small garage by installing an elec­tric boil­er. We imme­di­ate­ly focus on the fact that the method is suit­able for small objects with good ther­mal insu­la­tion, because the price of elec­tric­i­ty is quite high, its too active con­sump­tion will pro­voke huge util­i­ty bills. In terms of com­pact­ness, reli­a­bil­i­ty, safe­ty and automa­tion, this tech­nique is ide­al.

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Choosing a connection method

In the garage with your own hands, you will be able to imple­ment sev­er­al schemes for con­nect­ing heat­ing:

  • One pipe;
  • two pipes;
  • Com­bi­na­tion.

For a small room, a sin­gle-pipe scheme is also well suit­ed, this will save time, effort and mate­ri­als with­out com­pro­mis­ing work effi­cien­cy. How­ev­er, in large rooms it is bet­ter to use two pipes.

If we talk about the type of coolant, then ordi­nary water should not be used — the risk of freez­ing is too great, and the ice will sim­ply break the pipes from the inside, restor­ing the sys­tem will require huge finan­cial invest­ments. The best option is a spe­cial­ized antifreeze that does not pose a dan­ger to pipes, which has an extreme­ly low crys­tal­liza­tion tem­per­a­ture.

Assembly order

So, let’s look at how to orga­nize water effi­cient garage heat­ing with your own hands:

  • Mak­ing cal­cu­la­tions, pur­chas­ing appro­pri­ate con­sum­ables and equip­ment.
  • Deter­min­ing the place for installing the boil­er, instal­la­tion (before that, it is worth pour­ing the foun­da­tion or lay­ing a pow­er­ful met­al sheet on the sur­face).
  • Installing an expan­sion tank. Ide­al­ly, the tank should be at the low­est point of the sys­tem, at a height of about half a meter from the floor.
  • Instal­la­tion of radi­a­tors and bat­ter­ies. For fix­ing devices on the walls, spe­cial rein­forced dow­els are suit­able. In order to avoid prob­lems with air cir­cu­la­tion, it is rec­om­mend­ed to leave gaps of sev­er­al cen­time­ters between the radi­a­tor and the wall, 10–20 cen­time­ters between the radi­a­tor and the floor.
  • Pipe pulling. You can quick­ly con­nect met­al pipes with fit­tings or a weld­ing machine. A spe­cial heat­ing device is used to fix pipes based on polypropy­lene.
  • Antifreeze fill. Test run, check­ing the effi­cien­cy, how quick­ly the air will heat up, whether there are any leaks and oth­er signs of mal­func­tion.

Thus, it is quite pos­si­ble to equip an effi­cient heat­ing sys­tem in the garage on your own. To do this, you do not have to spend a lot of time, effort and mon­ey, you just need to cor­rect­ly solve all orga­ni­za­tion­al issues and not make mis­takes in the cal­cu­la­tions!

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