Which heater is best for hot water cuts

Many water heaters are eco­nom­i­cal, reli­able, safe — in a word, they are good for every­one, but you won’t be able to use them quick­ly. Gey­sers, for exam­ple, require coor­di­na­tion, and in some cas­es, mod­ern­iza­tion of the premis­es — this is not a quick mat­ter. Flow­ing water heaters con­sume a large amount of elec­tric­i­ty, which is not always enough. What option can be used quick­ly and with­out unnec­es­sary has­sle? Most often, if urgent instal­la­tion and con­nec­tion is nec­es­sary, low-pow­er instan­ta­neous water heaters or com­pact stor­age water heaters are cho­sen (we will only talk about elec­tric mod­els, gas ones, as men­tioned above, will most like­ly not be con­nect­ed quick­ly).

Instantaneous water heaters

You should choose those that have enough pow­er for your pow­er sup­ply. The esti­mat­ed con­nec­tion pow­er can be obtained from the com­pa­ny respon­si­ble for the oper­a­tion of your home. As a rule, in city apart­ments with­out elec­tric stoves, you can eas­i­ly con­nect an instan­ta­neous water heater with a pow­er of 3.5–4.5 kW, in hous­es with elec­tric stoves — up to 5–8 kW. Out­side the city, the sit­u­a­tion may be dif­fer­ent. In old vil­lages and sum­mer cot­tages, there may be out­dat­ed elec­tri­cal net­works, to which it is impos­si­ble to con­nect a load with a pow­er of more than 2.5–3.5 kW (in such a sit­u­a­tion, it is bet­ter to refuse the flow). In new set­tle­ments, elec­tric­i­ty con­sump­tion rates per house­hold can be sig­nif­i­cant­ly high­er, up to 15–20 kW;

Rel­a­tive­ly low-pow­er mod­els with a pow­er of up to 3–3.5 kW are con­nect­ed very sim­ply, like ordi­nary elec­tri­cal appli­ances — to a stan­dard 220 V pow­er out­let. Of course, you won’t get a lot of hot water with their help, you won’t take a bath or show­er. There­fore, they are most often used in the kitchen. For­tu­nate­ly, these com­pact devices require very lit­tle free space (much less than any boil­er).

On sale there are mod­els installed both under the sink and above the sink — choose the mod­i­fi­ca­tion that you like best. There are also very com­pact mod­els, made in the form of a noz­zle on a crane.

More pow­er­ful instan­ta­neous water heaters require sep­a­rate wiring, just like an elec­tric stove or wash­ing machine. This sep­a­rate branch must be equipped with an RCD that pro­tects users from elec­tric cur­rent leak­age. These water heaters must be con­nect­ed by a qual­i­fied elec­tri­cian.

Accumulative (boilers)

The main prob­lem of boil­ers is their over­all dimen­sions, which in the case of a capac­i­ty of 80–100 liters will be very impres­sive. Deter­mine in advance where you can place the boil­er — tak­ing into account the rules of the PUE (for exam­ple, you can­not place elec­tri­cal appli­ances above a bath­tub, sink, show­er cab­in or toi­let bowl; the dis­tance from the bath­tub, sink, show­er cab­in or toi­let bowl to the water heater must be at least 1 m in order to the user, being in that bath­room, could not reach the elec­tri­cal appli­ance).

A good place for a boil­er is the space in the bath­room above the door. There is usu­al­ly enough space to accom­mo­date even 100-litre tanks. For con­ve­nience, man­u­fac­tur­ers specif­i­cal­ly pro­duce water heaters that are designed for hor­i­zon­tal instal­la­tion.
Do not for­get that the stor­age water heater in the state filled with water will be very heavy and not every wall can with­stand it.

When it comes to limescale pro­tec­tion, you don’t need any spe­cial frills if you are going to use the boil­er for only a few days a year. Even stan­dard pro­tec­tion (mag­ne­sium anode) will last for many years of oper­a­tion in this mode.

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